Collin T
littletup8.5K followers
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12 oz Dragon D20 magnet spinner can cozy 3d model
littletup
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12 oz Dragon D20 magnet spinner can cozy 3d model
12 oz Dragon D20 magnet spinner can cozy video thumbnail
12 oz Dragon D20 magnet spinner can cozy 3d model
12 oz Dragon D20 magnet spinner can cozy 3d model
12 oz Dragon D20 magnet spinner can cozy 3d model
12 oz Dragon D20 magnet spinner can cozy 3d model
12 oz Dragon D20 magnet spinner can cozy 3d model

12 oz Dragon D20 magnet spinner can cozy

This model is restricted by licensing terms. 

Dragon 12oz can cozy with built in spinner. No dice required. A fun additon to any game night! Easy assembly with just magnets and glue. Screws are optional. Requires supports on the top piece only around the base. Color change files for the numbered spinner also included. You will need 36 Magnet 8x2mm Rare Earth Magnets Neodymium Magnets for Crafts https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CCXJTTFM?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1 Assembly video included.

Community Makes (2)
Here's my version of the mug, fully painted, with UV resin inlay.
This is my process:

1. first, printed it in a matte black so I would have a nice, dark, matte surface as my base for the paints and resins.
2. next, I painted the wooden part of the handle using various acrylic paint browns, with Dwarven Forge's Pokorny Paint Base Brown as my base. I also applied brown and black washes to get into the "wood grain".
3. then it was on to the smooth bit of the handle which I used Vallejo's Gunmetal Blue 70.800 with blue mica powder mixed in. I used the same Gunmetal Blue & mica powder mix on the mug rim and base line work, as well as the vertical line work and background of the circle containing the dragons. For all that I didn't worry about painting over the dragon as my next layer would cover it.
4. the next part involved using a cloth and the Silver Wax Metallic Finish from craftsmart to buff onto the high spots of all the filigree detail, the dragon and the spinning ring with the numbers.
5. lastly, I mixed up a batch each of blue mica powder with some blue tinted clear UV resin along with the same in red. I used a toothpick to dab in drops of the resin into the space around the numbers on the spinning dial, and the arrow filigree that marks the number rolled, marking the 20 with the red batch along with the eye of the dragon on either side of the mug. I used a UV flashlight to cure the resin as I went along.

I haven't yet added the cork base that I still need to cut out of a 1mm thick sheet of cork with an adhesive backing. Nor have I clear coated it with a matte finish, but I will be doing that when I get those materials.
My first attempt failed due to wall squish causing the magnets to not fit.  My second attempt was much better after adjusting my settings.
Here's my version of the mug, fully painted, with UV resin inlay.
This is my process:

1. first, printed it in a matte black so I would have a nice, dark, matte surface as my base for the paints and resins.
2. next, I painted the wooden part of the handle using various acrylic paint browns, with Dwarven Forge's Pokorny Paint Base Brown as my base. I also applied brown and black washes to get into the "wood grain".
3. then it was on to the smooth bit of the handle which I used Vallejo's Gunmetal Blue 70.800 with blue mica powder mixed in. I used the same Gunmetal Blue & mica powder mix on the mug rim and base line work, as well as the vertical line work and background of the circle containing the dragons. For all that I didn't worry about painting over the dragon as my next layer would cover it.
4. the next part involved using a cloth and the Silver Wax Metallic Finish from craftsmart to buff onto the high spots of all the filigree detail, the dragon and the spinning ring with the numbers.
5. lastly, I mixed up a batch each of blue mica powder with some blue tinted clear UV resin along with the same in red. I used a toothpick to dab in drops of the resin into the space around the numbers on the spinning dial, and the arrow filigree that marks the number rolled, marking the 20 with the red batch along with the eye of the dragon on either side of the mug. I used a UV flashlight to cure the resin as I went along.

I haven't yet added the cork base that I still need to cut out of a 1mm thick sheet of cork with an adhesive backing. Nor have I clear coated it with a matte finish, but I will be doing that when I get those materials.
My first attempt failed due to wall squish causing the magnets to not fit.  My second attempt was much better after adjusting my settings.


Community Makes (2)
Here's my version of the mug, fully painted, with UV resin inlay.
This is my process:

1. first, printed it in a matte black so I would have a nice, dark, matte surface as my base for the paints and resins.
2. next, I painted the wooden part of the handle using various acrylic paint browns, with Dwarven Forge's Pokorny Paint Base Brown as my base. I also applied brown and black washes to get into the "wood grain".
3. then it was on to the smooth bit of the handle which I used Vallejo's Gunmetal Blue 70.800 with blue mica powder mixed in. I used the same Gunmetal Blue & mica powder mix on the mug rim and base line work, as well as the vertical line work and background of the circle containing the dragons. For all that I didn't worry about painting over the dragon as my next layer would cover it.
4. the next part involved using a cloth and the Silver Wax Metallic Finish from craftsmart to buff onto the high spots of all the filigree detail, the dragon and the spinning ring with the numbers.
5. lastly, I mixed up a batch each of blue mica powder with some blue tinted clear UV resin along with the same in red. I used a toothpick to dab in drops of the resin into the space around the numbers on the spinning dial, and the arrow filigree that marks the number rolled, marking the 20 with the red batch along with the eye of the dragon on either side of the mug. I used a UV flashlight to cure the resin as I went along.

I haven't yet added the cork base that I still need to cut out of a 1mm thick sheet of cork with an adhesive backing. Nor have I clear coated it with a matte finish, but I will be doing that when I get those materials.
My first attempt failed due to wall squish causing the magnets to not fit.  My second attempt was much better after adjusting my settings.
Here's my version of the mug, fully painted, with UV resin inlay.
This is my process:

1. first, printed it in a matte black so I would have a nice, dark, matte surface as my base for the paints and resins.
2. next, I painted the wooden part of the handle using various acrylic paint browns, with Dwarven Forge's Pokorny Paint Base Brown as my base. I also applied brown and black washes to get into the "wood grain".
3. then it was on to the smooth bit of the handle which I used Vallejo's Gunmetal Blue 70.800 with blue mica powder mixed in. I used the same Gunmetal Blue & mica powder mix on the mug rim and base line work, as well as the vertical line work and background of the circle containing the dragons. For all that I didn't worry about painting over the dragon as my next layer would cover it.
4. the next part involved using a cloth and the Silver Wax Metallic Finish from craftsmart to buff onto the high spots of all the filigree detail, the dragon and the spinning ring with the numbers.
5. lastly, I mixed up a batch each of blue mica powder with some blue tinted clear UV resin along with the same in red. I used a toothpick to dab in drops of the resin into the space around the numbers on the spinning dial, and the arrow filigree that marks the number rolled, marking the 20 with the red batch along with the eye of the dragon on either side of the mug. I used a UV flashlight to cure the resin as I went along.

I haven't yet added the cork base that I still need to cut out of a 1mm thick sheet of cork with an adhesive backing. Nor have I clear coated it with a matte finish, but I will be doing that when I get those materials.
My first attempt failed due to wall squish causing the magnets to not fit.  My second attempt was much better after adjusting my settings.

Discussions
Joshua C
jchunick
Here's my version of the mug, fully painted, with UV resin inlay. This is my process: 1. first, printed it in a matte black so I would have a nice, dark, matte surface as my base for the paints and resins. 2. next, I painted the wooden part of the handle using various acrylic paint browns, with Dwarven Forge's Pokorny Paint Base Brown as my base. I also applied brown and black washes to get into the "wood grain". 3. then it was on to the smooth bit of the handle which I used Vallejo's Gunmetal Blue 70.800 with blue mica powder mixed in. I used the same Gunmetal Blue & mica powder mix on the mug rim and base line work, as well as the vertical line work and background of the circle containing the dragons. For all that I didn't worry about painting over the dragon as my next layer would cover it. 4. the next part involved using a cloth and the Silver Wax Metallic Finish from craftsmart to buff onto the high spots of all the filigree detail, the dragon and the spinning ring with the numbers. 5. lastly, I mixed up a batch each of blue mica powder with some blue tinted clear UV resin along with the same in red. I used a toothpick to dab in drops of the resin into the space around the numbers on the spinning dial, and the arrow filigree that marks the number rolled, marking the 20 with the red batch along with the eye of the dragon on either side of the mug. I used a UV flashlight to cure the resin as I went along. I haven't yet added the cork base that I still need to cut out of a 1mm thick sheet of cork with an adhesive backing. Nor have I clear coated it with a matte finish, but I will be doing that when I get those materials.
Here's my version of the mug, fully painted, with UV resin inlay.
This is my process:

1. first, printed it in a matte black so I would have a nice, dark, matte surface as my base for the paints and resins.
2. next, I painted the wooden part of the handle using various acrylic paint browns, with Dwarven Forge's Pokorny Paint Base Brown as my base. I also applied brown and black washes to get into the "wood grain".
3. then it was on to the smooth bit of the handle which I used Vallejo's Gunmetal Blue 70.800 with blue mica powder mixed in. I used the same Gunmetal Blue & mica powder mix on the mug rim and base line work, as well as the vertical line work and background of the circle containing the dragons. For all that I didn't worry about painting over the dragon as my next layer would cover it.
4. the next part involved using a cloth and the Silver Wax Metallic Finish from craftsmart to buff onto the high spots of all the filigree detail, the dragon and the spinning ring with the numbers.
5. lastly, I mixed up a batch each of blue mica powder with some blue tinted clear UV resin along with the same in red. I used a toothpick to dab in drops of the resin into the space around the numbers on the spinning dial, and the arrow filigree that marks the number rolled, marking the 20 with the red batch along with the eye of the dragon on either side of the mug. I used a UV flashlight to cure the resin as I went along.

I haven't yet added the cork base that I still need to cut out of a 1mm thick sheet of cork with an adhesive backing. Nor have I clear coated it with a matte finish, but I will be doing that when I get those materials. 3d model
 3d model
PrinterBambu Lab A1
Print bed sizeX: 256 mm; Y: 256 mm; Z: 256 mm
MaterialPLA
Layer height0.2 mm
Infill density15 %
Joshua C
jchunick

One aspect of the current d20 ring is that 20 and 1 are not on opposite sides of the spinner. The best setup on a dial or ring that I've seen is for opposite numbers to add up to 21, with the numbers alternating between high and low... so, to go clockwise, you'd have 20-1, 2-19, 18-3, 4-17, 16-5, 6-15, 14-7, 8-13, 12-9, 10-11. That gives a good distribution where a spin can land you on a high or a low, as they are right next to each other going around the ring/circle.

Dizzy E
dizzyedge77
My first attempt failed due to wall squish causing the magnets to not fit. My second attempt was much better after adjusting my settings.
My first attempt failed due to wall squish causing the magnets to not fit.  My second attempt was much better after adjusting my settings.   3d model
PrinterElegoo Neptune 4 Plus
MaterialPLA
Layer height0.16 mm
Infill density5 %
SupportsTree
Brandon P

love the design! Any chance at a 3mf file for the main mug as well? that would be great for the multi color printing also. thanks!

Jessica

May I ask how to locate the assembly video for this build?

Collin T
littletup

It is pinned at the top.

Mark M
mark88888891

Simply amazing work! Now, just make spinners for d12, d10, d8, d6, and d4...lol

Seriously, though. I love how you "painted" the Tree of Life one. Are you planning on releasing AMS versions of any other mugs (especially the spinner ones)?

Joshua C
jchunick

I was hoping the same. One aspect of the current d20 ring is that 20 and 1 are not on opposite sides of the spinner. The best setup on a dial or ring that I've seen is for opposite numbers to add up to 21, with the numbers alternating between high and low... so, to go clockwise, you'd have 20-1, 2-19, 18-3, 4-17, 16-5, 6-15, 14-7, 8-13, 12-9, 10-11. That gives a good distribution where a spin can land you on a high or a low, as they are right next to each other going around the ring/circle.

Collin T
littletup

will do.

Brandon P

got it assembled and it works pretty good, I'm running into an issue with it not being able to stop on certain numbers and it seems to want to stay on certain ones. Would the teflon tubes make this work better?

Collin T
littletup

The Teflon tube shouldn't make a difference on the stopping of the numbers. Only how smooth it spins. The magnets are what makes a difference on where it stops. Hopefully a magnet didn't slip out of position. I realize now that I did not explain properly in my video but you can use two 3M screws to dry fit and test it before you glue everything tight.

V
Venomuz13

OMG I just got mine together and it is amazballs. Once again my dude you have killed it with your design. Question though, what type and size of teflon tubing did you use. I used the standard size capricorn and it didn't spin right so I took them out.

Collin T
littletup

Just the standard white 4.0mm Teflon tube.

V
Venomuz13

Cool. Just in case anyone asks don't use Capricorn tubing lol

12 oz Dragon D20 magnet spinner can cozy

213 downloads · 1 year ago in  and 
Collin T
littletup8.5K followers
Follow
This model is restricted by licensing terms.