A ramp tile for the Aqueduct elevation tile series. Lifts the ball 20mm up to join other elevated tiles.

I've provided both joined tiles and tiles where the aqueduct is a separate piece (for multi-color printing). 

The little hole in the J-Tile is to add a little decoration like the "Fluffy Tree" item in the file list (more decoration accessories coming soon)

Compatible Tilesets:
Elevation - https://than.gs/m/898122
Roman Spa - https://than.gs/m/914553
J Aqueduct - https://than.gs/m/914537
I Aqueduct - https://than.gs/m/914544 

Hextraction - Aqueduct Ramp

Ramp Aqueduct, JC Tile (Joined).stl

Fluffy Tree.stl

**Modular Hextraction!**

--
**Revisions. Updated 5th January 2025.**
- Added Combined Hex : [5x1](https://than.gs/m/1239020)
- Added Combined Hex : [5x3](https://than.gs/m/1239040)
- Added Combined Hex : [5x5](https://than.gs/m/1239043)
- Added Combined On Ramp : [Combined On Ramp](https://than.gs/m/1239046)

--

**Revisions. Updated 13th June 2024.**
- Added a Super Fancy Gutters similar to my Super Fancy board remix Hextraction board. Download here: [Super Fancy Gutters](https://than.gs/m/1080338)

--

**Revisions. Updated 27th May 2024.**
- Revised Hex.stl to make it easier to print the overhangs around the threaded parts. 
- Added a single goal similar to the original board. Download here: [Single Goal](https://than.gs/m/1067616)
- Added an easier to use magnetic gutter system. Download here: [Magnetic Gutters](https://than.gs/m/1067624)

--

I've made another full remix of Zack’s Hextraction board game. This time it’s fully modular!  Allowing you to make a board in any shape, size and color you wish, even change the board in between games! 
This remix also includes something you can’t easily do in the standard version, blank hexes. These can replace a standard hex where you normally place tiles, with a blank. These stop players placing a tile there and instead forcing players to go around them. Allowing for even more interesting board layouts. The blank hexes can also be used to strengthen the board if a design gets too crazy.  

This remix adds a full gutter system, however it is a little different from my Super Fancy Remix and other gutter designs out there. Once a ball is trapped in the gutter, you need to slide the ball out with a finger and it will pop out. This design allows the gutters to work no matter how crazy the board layout is!  

Perhaps best of all this remix uses no glue and no hardware! It's all 3D printed! Want to add more pieces? Easy! Break a piece, just remove it and reprint! 

Unlike my Super Fancy remix, it does not include easy storage on the back of the board. Instead the idea behind this version is that you can just break the board into as many or few pieces as needed to store everything in a box. You can store up to 9 balls in a 100mm leg. Print a Leg_Foot_Shortest to use as a lid. But it won’t attach to the board like my Super Fancy remix.
Printing both this and my Super Fancy remix (or enough pieces of the Modular for 2 large boards) is a good option for more than 2 people. Two people can play while the other designs the board for the next game. Perhaps the winner or loser of the previous game designs the next board! 

--
**Print Settings:**

This board is a little more difficult to print than my super fancy remix, and despite my best efforts you will need to use some supports on a select few parts.

Many of the pieces have a small bed contact area, so good bed adhesion is a must. I printed all my pieces on fairly stock standard ender 5, with a glass bed with that black dotted coating on top, and have not had any issues. So give it a try without first and see how you go. 
If you are having trouble with this then I have added a MouseEars.stl file to add to pieces you are having failures with. Add them where parts are coming loose, usually around the threaded part of any piece. Then merge them together. See the picture with MouseEars.
Adding supports from the build plate only or adding a brim is another way to increase bed adhesion. Make sure to clean it up really well as this may cause issues with attaching pieces together. 


I printed everything with PLA+ with 2 perimeters, 0.2mm layer height. 15% infill, 4 top and bottom layers with the exception of:

Nut.stl and LegAttachment.stl = 3 perimeters, 60% Infill and 5 top and bottom layers. 

Hex.stl = 3 Perimeters 30% Infill - If you want to save some filament for each hex, see my filament usage section below.

Leg_100mm = If you have a printer where the bed moves, you may have trouble with this part as it has a small bed contact area and is tall. Consider using a brim. 

These are just suggestions, print them at what settings you wish. If you are going to make really big boards, I would recommend doing the legs with 3 perimeters for extra strength.

Print everything in the orientation of the file for best results. With the exception of the goals that can be printed so the front or the back sit flat. 
The goals screw on and line up best if printed in the orientation of the file (back down). However they can all be printed when rotated 30 degrees so that the fronts sit flat. This will allow you to do a color change for the checkered and X areas. With the tradeoff that the thread may not be quite as nice and may orient the part a few mm off. 
Depending on your printer the ends may need support, especially for the internal threaded area. 

After prints are complete make sure to check them for blobs, stringing and bits, especially in the threaded parts and nuts as this can cause parts to not go together correctly or break them.
Also make sure that Aligned Seam is not turned on in the slicer, this can cause issues with parts not fitting together. (at least it did for me especially with the nuts and feet)

--
**How many to print:**
All of the print amounts below are for a 22 hex board. The beauty of the modular version is that you can start with that many then print more as needed. 

Hex.stl x 22
Nut.stl x 61 = without gutters add +19 if using gutters (do a few extra for spares)
Goal Left Middle and Right x 2 of each
OnRamp Left Middle and Right x 2 of each 
LegAttachment.stl x 2
Leg_50mm x 2 
Leg_25mm x 2 
Leg_Foot_Long.stl x 2

This will get you a basic board similar to the one shown in Zack’s video (5 hexes from on ramp to goal). Since it is modular, once you have the hang of the game, and how long each game takes with your group. You can adjust the size of the board for a longer or shorter game.

Or if you want more of a challenge try only having 1 or two goals or on ramps? Have them in opposite corners? Add blank joiners (Blank_Hex.stl) in so that players can no longer place a tile there and have to go around it! And any other crazy board shape size or goal and on ramp locations you can think of! 
A good amount to allow for modularity is to double all of the above suggested amounts. Or see amounts used in some of the examples. 

It would be awesome to see some photos of your crazy board shapes and colors! I’d love it if someone tested how big the board could get before becoming unstable! Curious how big it could go!

--
**If you want to add side gutters:**

This works by catching the balls that go off the edge into a little slot (holds 2 max before its full) To release the ball, slide your finger down (sideways is easiest) and the ball will pop out. This design allows you to add gutters no matter what crazy board design you have, as they are small enough to fit next to each other in any configuration.

Print:
Gutter_Left_+ x 8 
Gutter_Right_-.stl x 8
Gutter_Spring.stl x 16 (do 18 just in case you break a few)

End gutters for standard layout board:
Gutter_EndLong x 3
For a standard board layout print 3 of these for the middle, left and right. 

Gutter_EndShort x ? - These are used for strange layouts to catch a ball from the main board gutter where a Gutter_EndLong will not fit. A good amount to do for other board layouts is around x 5.
(For a standard sized board these are not needed, instead use Gutter_EndLong)


**For strange shaped boards:**
Leg_Foot_Short.stl x 2 - Not needed for a standard sized board but included to go into goals for stability with strange shaped boards. Or if playing on a really uneven surface. Put 2 x foot_short in the outermost front goals to have height adjustment on all 4 corners.

**Spanner:**
The nuts are a standard M15 size. Print if you don't have a M15 socket. It's also handy for traveling or going to game nights.
SpannerHandle.stl x 1
SpannerSocket_M15.stl x 1

I printed them with 3 perimeters and 70% infill and have been strong enough so far. The part in the finger hole is designed to print in place and spin freely, but may need some “coaxing” to move if not rotating. 

--
**Assembly:**

Main Board: 
With the Hexes facing down, use the nuts to connect them all together. Any arrows, for example in the middle of the hex pieces should all point to the top of the board. To make sure you have them on correctly each threaded point will have a small + or - which should go together. You won't be able to connect a + to a + or  a - to a - 

When tightening the nuts they should be tightened firmly but don't wrench them on too hard as they may break. The side of the nut should sit roughly flat with the hex. Technically not all nuts are needed to hold a board together, the board will hold together just fine missing a few. However if you are finding that the board is not sitting flat when lying on the table then add more, as the nuts themselves are designed to fix the warping that sometimes happens with larger layouts. See Image of back of board for reference as to how far the nuts will stick out when tightened. 

Goals and OnRamps
Same as with the main hexes, arrows point to the top, join + to - 


Legs:
The legs attach to the main board with LegAttachment.stl, and will go in the place of a Nut. This should tighten up so that the back ridge of it will face the top of the board. The legs will only line up correctly if screwed into the top/bottom of a hex (where the arrow on a hex points) 
Then screw as many Leg_50mm or 25mm as needed to tilt the board to 30 degrees and a LegFoot_Long.stl into the last Leg. 


Spring Side gutters:
These will need one GutterSpring.stl placed in each. I found that it's easiest to get some tweezers and compress the spring, slide it sideways into the Gutter hole from the top, then twist it at the bottom. Some force may be required. 
The Spring should be placed so that the little ramp part is facing up, and sliding outwards (the lower part facing out, see photo) 


End Gutters: 
Attach a Gutter_EndShort to the left and right hand side, or if doing a different shape board anywhere that a gutter from a hex is open. 
If you are doing a standard size board then place a GutterEnd_Long.stl in the middle in between the goals, as a short gutter will be too short to reach to get the balls out. 
You could also use GutterEnd_Long on the left and right sides instead of the short version if you wish. (Can be a little easier to get the ball out for big fingers, and handy to store excess balls when playing.) 

That's It, the board should be assembled and ready to play! Experiment with different shapes and sizes! I would love to see some of our crazy board layouts, sizes and color schemes!!

--
**Bed Level:**
The board is designed so that the goals should sit flat on the table when using the correct amount of legs in the correct place. Twist the feet to lift up or lower the board so that the goals sit flat on the table. In certain board layouts or if the surface you are playing on is uneven, then add a foot small to two of the goals (usually the outermost ones for easy access) for 4 points of adjustment.
If none of the goals are sitting on the table (for strange layouts) Then print this bed leveling tile by Endlink here: https://than.gs/m/869596 to test if the board is at the correct angle. 
 
--
**Breaks:**
For the most part if you are using the recommended print settings and are careful when doing up the nuts no breakages should happen. However I have included Hex_+_Fix and Hex_-_Fix as these are the most likely places where a break will happen.  
To save you printing out an entirely new part, instead just print out these 2 little pieces and glue them in place of the broken ones. Make sure to clean up and flatten the area where the old bit broke off as best you can before gluing. After gluing a little sanding may be necessary if the glued in part is sitting slightly above the rest of the tile.  

I have only had one break where I was using only 2 perimeters and 15% infill on the hexes, and was not being careful when doing it up. So it should be rare that this even happens, but I'll include them just in case. 

--
**Filament usage:**
At recommended settings:
Per Hex = 26.26g for 22 = 557.72g 
To save some filament, add a layer height change from 4.4mm to 6.4mm (the area most likely to need extra strength) and in that section change settings to 3 perimeters and 40% infill, the rest of the print at 2 perimeters and 15%infill. This will use:
Per Hex = 20.54g for 22 = 451.88g

Goals: 2 x Left, 2 x Middle, 2 x Right including supports = 102.68g (will vary slightly depending on support types used) 

Legs: 2 x Leg 50mm, 2 x Leg 25mm, 2 x Leg Attachments, 2 x Leg Foot Long = 36.60g

Nut: x 1 = 1.49g x x 62 = 92.38g        x 80 = 119.2    

OnRamp Left x 2 Right x 2 Middle x 2 = 50.79g

Total for a x 22 hex board without gutters = 743.65g

Each extra row + gutters if 5 hex wide = 178.27g

Spring Gutters left and Right x 8 each (16)  = 79.46g  Springs x 16 = 4.56g

Gutter End x 2 = 10.72g

Gutter End Long x1 = 9.65g
Gutter End Long x1 = 36.81

**Total for a x 22 hex board with gutters = 855.16g**

Other:

Spanner and socket = 10.9g

Blank Hex = ~ x 13.22g depending on pattern used. 

--
**Thanks:**

-
This was all made and released for free! It took a lot of work, time and filament testing. So if you're feeling generous my Paypal donation link is below, and will be used to buy more filament. Anything would be greatly appreciated! 

**[Paypal Link](paypal.me/RichardH3D)**
-

Thanks to Zack and his original design of the Hextraction board game it’s heaps of fun! 


A huge thanks to Stefan for his help with beta testing all the prints! Without his extensive testing there would have been a lot of problems! 
 
Any comments or questions leave them below! I’m also fairly active on the Voidstar Lab discord.


Modular Hextraction Board!

Blank_Hex.stl

Goal_Left_+.stl

Goal_Middle.stl

Goal_Right_-.stl

Gutter_EndLong.stl

Gutter_EndShort.stl

Gutter_Left_+.stl

Gutter_Right_-.stl

Gutter_Spring.stl

Hex.stl

Hex_-_Fix.stl

Hex_+_Fix.stl

Leg_25mm.stl

Leg_50mm.stl

Leg_100mm.stl

Leg_Foot_Long.stl

Leg_Foot_Short.stl

Leg_Foot_Shortest.stl

LegAttachment.stl

MouseEars.stl

Nut.stl

OnRamp_Left_+.stl

OnRamp_Middle.stl

OnRamp_Right_-.stl

SpannerHandle.stl

SpannerSocket_M15.stl

Example_DONOTPRINT.stl

Leg_Foot_Longest.stl

A reverse gauss cannon that's resetable by pressing down the flipper. Watch the videos to see it in action. This was inspired by the [Gravitrax Magnetic Kickback](https://youtu.be/sjGhm_vcK00?si=12IjoEhvdCampS4r). Recommended to use with [Basics 90's Tiles](https://thangs.com/designer/NoStepOnDeez/3d-model/Hextraction%2090%27s%20Tiles%20%287%20Pack%29-1242481) to reduce balls clipping on intersection's corners.

**Rules Card Text**
Setup and Trigger: Press the flipper down.

**Hardware**
- **Required |** One [10x10mm magnet](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078GSZLHJ). Or five [10x2 Magnets](https://www.amazon.com/DIYMAG-Refrigerator-Neodymium-Whiteboard-Billboard/dp/B09X1WWD3P?linkId=696e333232f10ab293645af834e9e4e9&language=en_US). Any stack of thinner magnets equaling 10mm long will work, but will be a weaker launch compared to a single.
- **Required |** One M3x18 screw or longer.
- **Recommended |** A rubber band. Used for locking the flipper down during storage.

**Printing / Assembly Instructions**
1. Printing supports required on Flipper. No printing supports on Base.
2. Insert a 10x10mm magnet into the Base hinge side.
3. Insert a 10mm or 3/8in marble on each side of the magnet.
4. Install the flipper with an M3x18 screw from either side. Press the flipper until the ball retracts for ease of alignment. The flipper should rotate freely.
5. Before putting it in the pool, wrap a rubber band around the tile to lock the flipper down.


Hextraction Kickback Tile

Kickback Base.STL

The Red Hot Steel Ball Tile superheats your ball to 5,000 imaginary degrees Centigrade, burning through gimmicks, blockades, and anything else between you and the end zone. Melt a path to victory with this fancy effect tile for Hextraction, the hackable, 3D-printable board game.

The RHSBT is an effect tile with the same paths as the basic Peace Tile, but with a powerful effect - if the ball stops on a tile, you can destroy it right away, as if two other balls were also blocked. By shredding anything that blocks the ball, the RHSBT turbocharges the game and neutralizes any plan involving Trap Tiles and similar trickery. Just remember, if the outlet is blocked, the RHSBT can incinerate itself!

Since this is an Effect Tile, remember to print the rules card! You can also glue bits of filament in the little holes to craft the cosmetic "heating coil."

Fusion 360 source: https://a360.co/42xjX5v

All of my Hextraction tiles have a built-in sacrificial support under each notch - remember to snap it off after printing. Enable the brim if these detach from the bed. 

Hextraction is a 3D-printable, modder-friendly board game designed by me, Zack Freedman of Voidstar Lab. In addition to tiles, you'll also need [10mm steel balls](https://amzn.to/3MqpN30) or [3/8" slingshot ammo](https://amzn.to/41Hs5PG) and [a game board](https://than.gs/m/856439). To learn the rules and how to get started, [watch the Hextraction video](https://youtu.be/Iqz7ZDdP25A)!

Hextraction is absolutely free - it's free of charge - all of my models are here on Thangs, commercial use allowed. It's free-form - you can play with any number of opponents, even zero. It's free to modify - you can create your own tiles and configure your own board.

For more information, visit https://playhextraction.com.

Hextraction Red Hot Steel Ball Tile

RHSBT.stl

This tile travels across the game with a ball on board, opening big-brain plays almost as bizarre as en passant. Put your foes in check with this chess-inspired tile for Hextraction, the hackable, 3D-printable board game.

Even though it's got a neat self-resetting mechanism, this tile is fully printed, so if you don't have the hardware to make the Flipper Tile, you can capture some of its gameplay with the King. Since it needs open slots to work, it's strongest in the early and midgame. Consider adding some Bomb Tiles and other tile removers to open up more wiggle room!

I strongly recommend printing the Spring in PLA for stiffness, and the other components in PETG or nylon for smoothness. Print the Knob with the icon facing up, and the Upper with arrows against the plate, supports enabled. The Lower, Spring, and Kard don't need supports. To assemble:

1. Put a thin bead of glue around the center peg on the King Lower, drop in the Spring flat side down, and let it set.
2. If possible, apply some plastic-safe grease to the Knob's underside and tabs.
3. Push the Knob into the Upper, and make sure the Knob's tabs nest into the Upper's tracks.
4. Apply glue to the four pegs on the Lower. Drop the Knob and Upper onto the Lower and let the glue set.
5. If necessary, apply more grease to make the motion smooth.

Fusion 360 source: https://a360.co/45aGjeT

All of my Hextraction tiles have a built-in sacrificial support under each notch - remember to snap it off after printing. Enable the brim if these detach from the bed. 

Hextraction is a 3D-printable, modder-friendly board game designed by me, Zack Freedman of Voidstar Lab. In addition to tiles, you'll also need [10mm steel balls](https://amzn.to/3MqpN30) or [3/8" slingshot ammo](https://amzn.to/41Hs5PG) and [a game board](https://than.gs/m/856439). To learn the rules and how to get started, [watch the Hextraction video](https://youtu.be/Iqz7ZDdP25A)!

Hextraction is absolutely free - it's free of charge - all of my models are here on Thangs, commercial use allowed. It's free-form - you can play with any number of opponents, even zero. It's free to modify - you can create your own tiles and configure your own board.

For more information, visit https://playhextraction.com.

Hextraction King Tile

King Tile v19 - don't print.step

Make a strategy that defies gravity with this kinetic tile for Hextraction, the hackable, 3D-printable board game. Warning: It'll put your eye out.

When a ball enters the Launcher Tile, its effect activates - pull back the spring-loaded pusher and release it to fire the ball into the upper-left or upper-right edge. Positioning is important - since almost every tile is designed for balls to enter the TOP edges, very few will work if you start at the wrong end of the ice-cream cone. Prepare by stocking the pool with extra Asterisks, Pachinkos, Gears, "illegal" basics, and other compatible tiles. The Flipper Tile actually DOES work with the Launcher, provided the flipper is pointing in the other direction.

For the strongest launch, brace the tile against the board with one hand, while using the other to launch. The snappier the release, the stronger the launch. PLEASE don't let kids play with this tile - while it shouldn't be powerful enough to injure anyone, accidents do happen. You also don't want your vile offspring firing pencils out of this thing.

The Launcher Tile has a print-in-place mechanism - simply print the tile with supports enabled on the build plate only. Don't use PLA or composites - you need the lowest friction possible. After printing and cleaning up, use a Q-tip or toothpick to apply a plastic-safe grease to the slider track, and use tweezers to install a [McMaster 9044K11 extension spring](https://www.mcmaster.com/9044K11/) on the pegs below. Depending on your printer's support interface settings, you may need to thin the pegs down with a craft knife to fit the spring.

Also, don't forget to print the rules card - this uses a triggered effect to fire the ball!

Fusion 360 source: https://a360.co/3LWqEXA

All of my Hextraction tiles have a built-in sacrificial support under each notch - remember to snap it off after printing. Enable the brim if these detach from the bed. 

Hextraction is a 3D-printable, modder-friendly board game designed by me, Zack Freedman of Voidstar Lab. In addition to tiles, you'll also need [10mm steel balls](https://amzn.to/3MqpN30) or [3/8" slingshot ammo](https://amzn.to/41Hs5PG) and [a game board](https://than.gs/m/856439). To learn the rules and how to get started, [watch the Hextraction video](https://youtu.be/Iqz7ZDdP25A)!

Hextraction is absolutely free - it's free of charge - all of my models are here on Thangs, commercial use allowed. It's free-form - you can play with any number of opponents, even zero. It's free to modify - you can create your own tiles and configure your own board.

For more information, visit https://playhextraction.com.

Hextraction Launcher Tile (NOT FOR KIDS!)

Launcher Tile.stl

This mech/effect hybrid packs the big iron - up to six balls to dispense at will.  While this tile is fully usable in normal gameplay, advanced gunslingers can drop the safety on its spicy Forbidden effect. It's high noon over Hextraction, the hackable, 3D-printable board game. 

Six sides to a tile... six balls for two players... it was only a matter of time before someone drew a six-shooter - in CAD. Pun. The Revolver Tile's revolving cylinder can hold balls in six positions, and the base's low profile and gentle curves keep balls rolling if a path is closed. It's like a smarter, sexier Flip-Flop Tile crossed with a more reliable Sozu Tile. The magnum version, if you will.

For aesthetic reasons, I didn't put jagged marks to designate the trigger area. It shouldn't matter, since balls can enter the tile from all directions.

Because you choose the direction and how far to turn the cylinder, the Revolver Tile is extremely flexible and useful. It can stockpile balls to unleash a crazy multi-ball play, and let you reroute around a broken path. It's great for multi-turn plays, especially if the table enables the Forbidden effect, to allow more than three chambers to be filled without destroying the tile. It's not too disrupted, but it deepens the tactics and flavor in return for potentially prolonging the game.

Print one copy of each. Drop the cylinder into the tile and secure with a M3x12mm screw. Tighten it until the cylinder holds its position but still turns smoothly.

Between us cyborgs, I was thinking of making a Fan the Hammer tile with the effect "Trigger: Spin a Revolver Tile's cylinder a full 360 degrees." Feel free to do it yourself... I'll link it here...

This tile's Forbidden effect is incompatible with the game rules, but can be enabled voluntarily. As the first copy of a Forbidden tile is played each game, call a vote. If any player votes nay, the tile's Forbidden effects are disabled. If all players vote yea, the Forbidden effects are enabled and take priority over game rules.

If you'd like to edit the tile, the source is here: https://a360.co/3MaIAhi
While you're free to re-distribute the tile outside Thangs' paywall, I'd like to ask that you at least modify it a bit. The fewer people buy Booster Packs, the less time I can devote to making more.

Since Forbidden tiles are too problematic for most players, I've decided to reserve mine as premium models for the most dedicated players. Play them responsibly, and thank you for supporting Hextraction!

Hextraction Revolver Tile

Revolver Tile Cylinder.stl

Remix of Hextraction - Aqueduct Ramp by BitTorrent
Added side guards, because the ball got out from the path with high speed. While I was at it, I added a "g" tile, you can achieve some very interesting paths with it.
Sadly I had to remove the stones and trees, there was no more space left.
Do a filament change at the tile top, and use marble pla for the best effect.

Hextraction - Aqueduct Ramp with Roman column sideguards

Aqueduct_Ramp_g_Tile.stl

Take your Hextraction game to the next level with this Roman-themed elevation tile. This tile lets you place any other tile on top of it, enabling the use of other raised tiles. 

Elevated tiles are raised 20mm, and are compatible with the other elevated tilesets:
Elevation - https://than.gs/m/898122
Roman Spa - https://than.gs/m/914553
J Aqueduct - https://than.gs/m/914537
I Aqueduct - https://than.gs/m/914544 
Aqueduct ramp - https://than.gs/m/914623

UPDATE: I've added a version with a little hole in the center of the tile. This lets you add a bumper in the form of a fountain (file also added). You can join them together with an M2 screw, or just glue.

Hextraction - Roman Spa, Elevation Tile

Roman Spa v3 (Big Pillar).stl

Roman Spa v2 (Small Pillar - Hole).stl

Fountain.stl

When this tile starts rocking, you best start knocking... your ball one way or the other. Goose your gameplay with this dynamic tile for Hextraction, the hackable, 3D-printable board game. The third tile in Booster Pack 2: Time is of the Hexes combines a skill-testing physical challenge with the game's very first activated effect, and a heaping helping of pure chaos!

When I set out to make a time-themed booster pack, I knew it needed a temporary effect, and not temporary like a few turns - temporary like a few SECONDS. But making a delayed effect was harder than it seemed. Clockwork was too finicky, hourglasses too large, electronics too complex. I found the solution as I was tossing old projects - a prototype Sozu Tile without the limiting peg. After dumping the balls, this version would rock back and forth, often settling slightly misaligned. I added the peg to cut that motion short, but what if I did the reverse? What if I made the flipper even heavier and even less balanced?

This is the result. When still, it's basically MrPancake's Left/Right Randomizer Tile, a fork in the road that randomly sends balls left or right. But it's got an effect printed right on - once per turn, you can set the pendulum swinging. Time it right and you've got a Flip-Flop Tile you can adjust at will to send the ball where you need it. Time it wrong and it's got a mind of its own, or worse - the ball can jam the mechanism when the pendulum is hanging still at the edge of its swing. Since it uses two balls for weight, you're not going anywhere - that tile is going away, giving the next player an opening. 

As for strategy, it's all about the timing and preparation. Hold a ball near the ramp as you swing the pendulum, so you can roll immediately and boost the odds of hitting your sweet spot. If the tile is far away, you might want to flick the pendulum hard enough to do full rotations, to ensure it's still in motion when the ball arrives. 

Note that it's not physically possible to make this pendulum swing slower - the rate at which a pendulum swings is proportional to the distance between the weight and the fulcrum, and the 50mm tile constrains that length. Adding more weights won't help - the reason I added a second ball was to kick more balls back onto the track. If you want to make a slower version of this tile, you'll need to make the pendulum hang UNDER the board.

This tile and its pendulum can be printed in any rigid filament, though I recommend smooth PETG or nylon. To print the single-color version, just run off the Pendulum Tile. For multi-material fun, drag Pendulum Tile and 2-Color Lettering into your slicer simultaneously, and when prompted, select "Load these as a single object with multiple parts" and assign filaments as desired. I've prepared a ready-to-print 3MF file with three Pendulum Tiles that should work in PrusaSlicer, SuperSlicer, and Bambu Studio. Note that these do NOT include the Pendulum - to reduce the number of filament swaps, I recommend printing this separately. 

As for the Pendulum, print the one that fits the balls you're using. Assembly is just like the Sozu Tile, but with two balls instead of one - snap them into the spherical voids BEFORE installing the pendulum! Then, use an [M3x8 screw ](https://amzn.to/3O7JLAv)to mount a [3x7x3mm ball bearing](https://amzn.to/3BoDh96) to the base, and GENTLY press the Pendulum down. It should swing freely at a light touch, then gradually come to rest. It might need [a little grease ](https://amzn.to/3pEmkVz).

If you'd like to edit the tile, the source is here: https://a360.co/3NDfQi6
While you're free to re-distribute the tile outside Thangs' paywall, I'd like to ask that you at least modify it a bit. The fewer people buy Booster Packs, the less time I can devote to making more.

Hextraction: The Pendulum Tile

Pendulum Tile.stl

Set up power plays and spin foes' heads with this dual-state mechanical tile for Hextraction, the hackable 3D-printable board game. This is tile 4 of 5 in Hextraction Booster Pack 3: Practical F-Hex.

The Turnstile Tile is pretty simple - it's a turntable, and if a ball slips in, the turn tables and dumps it out the bottom. But here's the catch: One side is open, the other is blocked, and whenever a ball enters one side, the other opens up. To get through, you have to feed balls on two sides, but when you do, it'll oscillate back and forth on its own, clearing both queues. The best part? This puppy is 100% automatic, no rules cards, just pure physics.

It's kind of like a Flip-Flop Tile in reverse, or maybe a Sozu Tile without the counterweight. It's weird, and it's not like anything I've ever seen in another game (or even another marble maze...)

Print one Turntable and one Tile. If desired, drag the 2-Color Details into the slicer along with the Tile for multi-material madness, or simply open the included 3MF file. The two-tone tile has a subtle effect that fills the arrow pointing towards the active entrance - it's not too prominent, but I still think it's neat.

You'll need one pan- or socket-head M3x10 or 12 screw to attach the pieces together. You shouldn't need a washer or grease - this uses a revised design that should work more reliably than the Sozu or Flipper Tiles. You probably don't need supports, and you definitely don't need a brim. Low-friction filament like nylon or PETG is recommended but not required.

If you'd like to edit the tile, the source is here: 
https://a360.co/3rHHZwR
While you're free to re-distribute the tile outside Thangs' paywall, I'd like to ask that you at least modify it a bit. The more people buy Booster Packs, the more time I can devote to making more.

Hextraction: The Turnstile Tile (takes turns in style)

Turntable.stl

A Flip-Flop like tile with an additional gutter-drop and pass-through. Watch the video to see it in action.

This tile is part of my _Mechanical Flippers Pack_. Check the others out.
- 180 https://than.gs/m/1116280
- Alternator https://than.gs/m/1116292
- Bounce Flop https://than.gs/m/1327656
- Follower https://than.gs/m/1228246
- I-Flop https://than.gs/m/1288093
- JL Flop https://than.gs/m/1327657
- Omni-Flip https://than.gs/m/1228247
- Side Flop https://than.gs/m/1116295
- T-Switch https://than.gs/m/1116307
- Trident https://than.gs/m/1228248
- Tri-Switch https://than.gs/m/1288137
- XC Flop https://than.gs/m/1327667

**Hardware**
- one M3x10 screw (or longer)
- two M2x12 screws
- one M3 washer

**Assembly**
1. Install two M2x12 screws into the top of the flipper. They must protrude past the bottom of the flipper.
2. Insert an M3 screw into the flipper, stack a washer on the end of the screw, then install the flipper. It should freely spin and barely wobble.
The M2 screws should not protrude past the bottom of the tile, should provide 120 rotation lock to the flipper and should not grind the wall of the base.

**Notes**
This base is the same used in the [Omni-Flip Tile](https://than.gs/m/1228247).

Hextraction Alternator Tile

Alternator Base.STL

Alternator Flipper.STL

Use the Tentacle Tile's three tentacles to disable traps, block paths, and generally cause chaos!

Print one tile and three "hands." Make sure you add supports underneath the central area. For each tentacle, take some AWG 22 wire, loop it through the hand, twist the wires together, stick the two ends through two of the holes in the tile, twist them together underneath the tile, and cut off any excess.

Hextraction Tentacle Tile

Tentacle Tile v1.1.stl

Five new tiles for Hextraction:
The Bunker destroys tiles when a ball falls into its trap
The Climber starts at the bottom of the field and if you can get it to the top on your turn, you win!
The Missile will destroy a specific adjacent tile
The Regrowth tile brings in new tiles when triggered
The Wowzer tile can let you take two turns in a row!
There is also an alternate card for the Void Tile (originally by Zack Freedman). The new rules cause the Void to destroy a tile when the ball falls through its hole. 

Hextraction Destruction and Regrowth

climber ladder.stl

wowser.stl

Hextraction

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