![VKB Gladiator Trigger Mod V2 [OLD VERSION] 3d model](/_next/image?url=https%3A%2F%2Fstorage.googleapis.com%2Fproduction-thangs-public%2Fuploads%2Fattachments%2Fefc53754-4ef7-4032-b009-b69fd5a5a59f%2FMKIII.png&w=3840&q=85)
![VKB Gladiator Trigger Mod V2 [OLD VERSION] 3d model](/_next/image?url=https%3A%2F%2Fstorage.googleapis.com%2Fproduction-thangs-public%2Fuploads%2Fattachments%2Fefc53754-4ef7-4032-b009-b69fd5a5a59f%2FMKIII.png&w=256&q=75)
![VKB Gladiator Trigger Mod V2 [OLD VERSION] 3d model](/_next/image?url=https%3A%2F%2Fstorage.googleapis.com%2Fthangs-thumbnails%2Fproduction%2Fe7ce8e6c-0131-46a8-bf7e-91a4be478667%2F69e98b3b5a09ca118b0a868d8fd54bd2bfc4d4939d5f5ffde3cc7315a1c00d17%2FVKB_Gladiator_RightPrimaryV2.png&w=256&q=75)
VKB Gladiator Trigger Mod V2 [OLD VERSION]
126 downloads · 1 year ago · Taking the fantastic start of V1, this kicks things up a notch both in reliability, and comfort. Th
Taking the fantastic start of V1, this kicks things up a notch both in reliability, and comfort. This allows you to keep the dual stage functionality of your VKB main trigger while incorporating a bypass to access the second stage directly.
12/7/25 Update: Cleaned up the file naming and removed redundant files to make versioning more clear.
VKB Gladiator Trigger Mod V2 [OLD VERSION]
126 downloads · 1 year ago in and
Constellation Alpha Split Trigger Mod
VKB Gladiator Split Trigger V3
Joystick Variants
VKB Thumb Hat Switch Covers
VKB Gladiator Thumb Hat Switch Covers
CableClip.3mf
BR75-T
Bullpup 2.0
ParametricTriglide
DYE i5 Lens Goggle Adapter
![BR75 Cosplay Version [NON-FUNCTIONAL] 3d model](/_next/image?url=https%3A%2F%2Fstorage.googleapis.com%2Fproduction-thangs-public%2Fuploads%2Fenhanced_images%2Fv1%2F0611032e-b2dd-4bd6-9e39-1dade9d82dc5%2FBR75.png&w=3840&q=75)
BR75 Cosplay Version [NON-FUNCTIONAL]
BR75 Airsoft Rifle
Glock Magazine Loader
Monstertech Lockout extension arm
VKB MKI.3mf
VKB Trigger Mod V2
VKB Gladiator to Moza AB9 base adapter
![Alpakka Looser Triggers Mod [V1] 3d model](/_next/image?url=https%3A%2F%2Fstorage.googleapis.com%2Fproduction-thangs-public%2Fuploads%2Fattachments%2Fa94c98a5-2dea-443b-9ae1-deddf0881dac%2FAlpakke%2520Mods%2520Looser%2520Triggers.png&w=3840&q=75)
Alpakka Looser Triggers Mod [V1]
FHW: Old timer rc car body jig (Mod)
I bought this a long time ago and printed it... Totally forgot to come back and thank Odd Job for the V2!
It was a struggle since I know these are designed for SLA, but boy do I love the better trigger than the old stubby one!
I'm glad you've been enjoying them. I take it as an added pat on the back that the design can be made to work with FDM. That would seem to indicate a robust design that works with adverse tolerances.
Love this new version, if feels more robust and printed much better on my FDM machine.
Hi! Just mistakenly bought this version and not the new one. Is there a way to refund this in order to buy the new one? Thx in advance
so there are a lot of files. I assume the v3.3 is the most up to date to print?
made a pair of rights in PETG just in case :)
https://imgur.com/a/BS6rYk1
when he comes back fettling we'll let you know :)
K1 .2 nozzle and printed at .16 :)
Also, printing in FDM (I used PET-G), the primary trigger splits at a layer line near the top hole and spring catch. This could be solved by changing the orientation of the model when slicing, but wanted to let you know that that is a weak point in the model.
FYI the depression/nub for the original spring is too deep: when I press the trigger, the secondary trigger fires before the aforementioned spring can fire the primary actuator, so I'm unable to use the primary trigger by itself. I had to create and add a small washer I made out of a paper clip in order to get the spring to press the primary actuator before the secondary is pressed.
That sounds like it is within what I expect of the usual 'tuning' process. If I had the means of testing to a higher level, I'd be able to specify an exact spring to be used, but as it is, it's just some tinkering that must be done. I have to make some concessions to make it possible to get the right result. In your case, if I had made the cavity shallower, then it is just as likely that someone gets too much spring pressure and would then need to remove material.
What's the best orientation to support the models for resin 3D printing?
Sorry for the long delay, Thangs has kind of a wonky interface on the creator side that I'm STILL learning. I orient these with the main contact surface away from the plate so that I get the smoothest surface for my fingers. Aside from that, you want to ensure the spring locating features are able to be printed cleanly.