Katana Test Print
This is a test print for the Collapsing Katana. If you can print it with NOTHING attaching the rings together, then you should be able to successfully print the full sword.
The test print is a total of 24mm high so I change settings every 8mm(3x) then compare the changes until I achieve the best result. The settings that will have the most impact are; flowrate, retraction distance/speed, coast, wipe, and extra restart distance. You may also try; seam location, speed, temperature, and z-hop.
I have detailed instructions on how to print collapsing swords on my website.
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Katana Test Print
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The test print creates a perfect 2-layer shell and prints perfectly. However, the actual sword creates a 4-layer shell with the exact same settings. I believe that this is why many people are getting seam issues. I have not been able to tweak the settings to make the sword model revert to a two-layer shell for the blade. Advice?
I don't see how the slicer can squeeze four >.4mm line widths in a wall that is only .85mm thick?
Have you ever thought about making Inuyasha's sword (Tessaiga) transformed large form?
I'll have to check that out!
creality ender 3 v3 SE Do you know the settings for this brand If you know that could you please tell me
I would just print it with different retraction setting to find what works the best for your printer.
everything prints fine but at the bottom it alwayes fuses together
That is from elephants foot, raise your first layer up slightly.
what type of adhesion
I print on clean PEI.
so i have a tina2s and it won't let it move because it sticks to the seam line
Did you try a negative extra retraction distance? I would start at -.06mm.
How do you do that?
mine melted at the beginning on the swords and test print
I sounds like your first layer height too low.
My test print worked amazingly but I printed the whole sword and it didn’t work. I’m using Bambu P1P with Bambu slicer
Its probably a bed adhesion problem or little strings that you did not notice on the test print.