Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5180473.

If you've printed the Control Box from my Maker Mods thing 

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4086006  

you've realized that to replace a component in the Nose section you had to pretty much take all the guts out of everything to take the Nose off. And cursing me as well.....

No more. Now the Nose is held on with 2 M3 x 10mm screws and hinges/lifts off for easy access.

Additionally, the Arctic F9 fan that was in it was too loud and a bit overkill, so I've changed it out to a Noctua 4010 with a new backplate.




Maker Mods II - Control Box Upgrade

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3462192.

Update: A Rev2 bracket is now included. It has a cutout versus a hole for the hardware, allowing you to slide the bracket on and off the frame, leaving the hardware in place. Easy On-Easy Off.

Well, like any other tool, my original X-Leveling Spacers  https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3254069 just seemed to get in the way on my print table after use.  

I didn't want to "put them away" after use, and didn't want to make some sort of tool storage thingy for them either.

So, I did some thinking and came up with these.

They do exactly the same thing as my originals, but they stay attached to the printer.

Extend them in when you want to X-level, then retract them when you're done.

They don't get in my way of anything, they're slimline, and based on whatever color you choose to print them in, they're quite a stylish addition to your machine. 

At least I think so. :-)

Installing these will require that you drill and tap 4 ea 3mm holes in the front of your frame, 2 on each side. 

If you haven't got the necessary tools to do that, well, this might not be for you, OR, get what you need and make it happen. :-)

You will also need to make sure that the Z motor mounting screws are toward the back of your machine to let the sliding part extend. That's the purpose of the notch in the bottom end.

I've included STL, STEP and SLDPRT files.

If you would be so kind, please post your Makes.

Thank You!




X Leveler Rev 2 for Maker Select

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4143803.

"Look Ma, no wires!"

As with my other workups:

B-25 Mitchell    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4121096
F4U Corsair      https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4178322
Il-2 Sturmovik    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4132256
EDGE 540 46”   https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4128056
EDGE 540 73"   https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4368656
Qtrainer               https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4137667
P-51D                  https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4186416
Focke-Wulf Ta152H   https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4195584



Another implementation using 2.54mm 9-pin JST-XH connectors with standard servo ends.

Easy, templated installation, adjustable.

Uses 3 ea  M3 x 8mm self-tapping screws.

Designed for and installed in a fully assembled plane, with plenty of access/space to install electronics.



Spitfire Mk IX - Wing Servo Connector - 3DLabPrint

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4631981.

I wanted something other than what was out there already.

It hooks over the tabs for the gimbal mount in the upper fuselage and fits with minor tension between the lower rear gimbal rubber mounts.

Easy install: squeeze the sides, set in place, slide it back, release.

It wasn't designed to trap the gimbal: it's just a cover, but it does restrict gimbal movement when in place.

The text plate was done separately for easier overall printing.


FIMI X8 SE 2020 Gimbal Cover

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3418244.

A while back, there seemed to be a "rush" on external 120MM fan shrouds for the Maker Select V2.

That little stock 40mm was NOT getting it done, and it was sucking air IN, instead of pulling air OUT.

I liked the 120mm design, but I didn't like how, to me, it grossly oversized the end of the control box.

I wanted something that maintained the stock control box profile.

So, I designed a shroud that accommodated an internal 92MM Arctic F9 fan.

It attaches using the same 4 screw mounts that retain the stock cover.

Then the fan fits in, and a fan grille is attached over it with 4 longer M3 screws.

In the process, I did a couple of additional things:

1. I eliminated the rear Power Switch in favor of a lighted rocker in the bottom front of the control box. I got sick and tired of reaching to the back of the control box just to turn it on/off. THIS REQUIRED metal cutting.

2. I replaced the switched/fused Power Cord feed with just a fused Power Cord feed.

3. I re-positioned the Melzi board to one interior side of the control box, which allowed me to gain easier access to the SD card port, which allowed me to design a shroud to firmly hold a full-size SD adapter. This AGAIN REQUIRED metal cutting AND tapping.

4. I lengthened the cable harness by about 6 inches, giving me some more slack out of the control box.

5. I added a MOSfet for the Hot Bed. The mount incorporates both the MOSfet and the smoothers, but my design needs some work as it's warping in the box.

6. I added smoothers for the axis and extruder motors. Honestly, I don't believe they've done ANYTHING by way of improvement, so I'm not going into detail about that.

I have not detailed the process I went through to modify the metal control box/reposition the Melzi board, as I'm just not sure that it is a mod that many folk would want to make. You'd be hacking metal.

If you ARE interested, add a Comment requesting it, or PM me, and I'll try to detail it as best as possible: it was a really subjective mod.

The Fan Shroud is configured in a couple different options:

1. Power and Data out the same side: Power low and Data high.
2. Power out one side and Data out the other.

Depending on which configuration you'd like, simply mirror the appropriate piece in your slicer.

Be forewarned: when I printed this many months ago, I was printing at 60mm/s, and it took over 24 hours to complete. I was nervous then, as I only had the printer for maybe a month.

Nowadays, to me, a 24+ hr print is nothing more than a walk in the park. :-) 
And it helps that I print everything at 80mm/s or faster.

With the SD card shroud positioned on the TOP of the control box, I don't ever "bump" the card accidentally and inadvertently halt a print.

Now, I HAVE, ONE TIME ONLY, accidentally hit the front mounted power switch and lost a print that way, but only once. :-)  Be warned!  :-)

I use 2 little squares of 3M automotive dbl-stick to hold the SD shroud in place, and it stays there quite well. When I want to physically connect via USB, I just pry it off and plug in.
I hope to go at it again one day, re-config the cutout, and re-design a shroud that simply snaps in, making USB control that much easier to achieve and eliminating the dbl-stick tape. Details about that can be requested as before: it''s another purely subjective mod.

All in all, it was not a difficult project, but there's drilling and cutting and tapping of metal involved, and that just may not be everyone's cup-o-tea.

I've included the STL and SLDPRT for the Fan Shroud and Fan Grille.

The other components can be made available on request.





92MM Fan Shroud for Maker Select V2

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2956038.

Felt it was easier to design my own, so I did. 

They utilize an M3 Locknut.  

The serrations on the edge make it easy to adjust them.

If you would be so kind, please post your Makes.

Thank You!

Yet Another Thumbwheel

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4378581.

UPDATE: They needed a slight change as I designed these before I actually strung them.
The pull-pull cabling was touching the inner fuselage: no more.
If you have previously downloaded these before 6/2/2020, download them again.


The 3D printed Elevator and Rudder Arms in the kit were just flat plastic, and utilized screwing the x-arms to the printed plastic.

I wanted something stronger, so I designed these to embed the servo-supplied round control arms into the new printed arms.

I use Cura, so:

eSun PETG,  Normal .15 Resolution, 95% Infill.

Print the arms with the ribs UP: they need Support, Touching the Build Plate.

I used 4 ea M3 x 8mm self-tapping screws for each arm.

I cut the excess screw with some side cutters and ground them smooth with a Dremel stone wheel.

If you/d rather a cleaner inside look, there are covers that screw on. The retainer screw will need to be an M3 x 8

The covers are printed with the letters UP, .15 Resolution, 15% Infill, Support Touching Build plate.







EDGE 540v3 73" - Elevator/Rudder Arms - 3DLabPrint

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4752800.

Wanted a better looking stand for my Berkey than the block of wood I had it on, and I wanted it higher off the counter surface than the 6' the factory stand offers. 

I have provided 2 sized stands with options.

One is for the Royal at 9-1/2" diameter, and the other is for the Big, at 8-1/2" in diameter, both sized so that about 1/2" of Top shows around the rubber base ring.

A few different models can be assembled using Bases with or without Feet, with or without Rings, using a shorter Upper: just some options for the desired overall height/appearance.

A Foot is 20mm tall; a Base-No Foot is 130mm tall; a Base-Foot is 110mm tall; a Ring is 10mm tall; an Upper is 130mm tall; a Shorter Upper is 120mm tall; the Top is 5mm thick at contact area.

I made one for my Royal and another for a UK friend who has a Big.

Mine is Base-No Foot, Ring, Upper, and Top: the height from counter to the Top of the stand is 10-5/8", and to the bottom of the spigot is 10-7/8"

The Big is smaller in diameter, has Feet, and is just as tall.

You'll need 1 of each desired piece and 3 Top section pieces.

The Part name indicates if it is for the Big or the Royal model.

 


Berkey Water Filter Stand

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4897932.

UPDATE 12/21/2021: Now includes an All Files.zip file
UPDATE 7/16/2021: A spring-loaded Hammer has been added. 
The Hammer retracts when the Trigger/Slide moves backward and returns as the Trigger/Slide moves forward.
If  you have previously printed this model and want the new feature, you will need to reprint the following parts: Left Side, Inner Frame, Right Side, Hammer, and Slide, plus 3 additional new parts, the Pivot Ring, Pivot Pin, and Pin.
There are additional hardware requirements as well: details are in Miscellaneous Notes.
 
_______________________________________________________________________

I really liked the original (kudos to tjsc5f), but I wanted hardware to hold it together.

So, I made some changes...

Added hardware: bolts/nuts/screws.
 
Added some (optional) press-in plugs to fill the visible hardware holes.

The Trigger/Slide is now spring loaded internally, so there is no pre-loading required.

The Barrel notch is gone in favor of a more traditional look.

The Safety is functional.

The Slide Lock is functional. 

The Trigger got some holes.

The Hammer is spring loaded and returns after each shot. The motion of the Slide moves the Hammer via small bosses in the Slide, keeping the Rotor free to turn.

The Rotor is the square notch style from the bakewell remix, to which I added a flange on both sides to keep it centered in the Slide. 

Changed the 3 plastic pins (Rotor, Hammer, Trigger) to 4mm x 14mm SS dowel pins.

A slide-out magazine, retained by magnets, holds additional rubber bands.

The end result is that it's a tad heavier, feels more solid when you hold it, maybe looks a bit more realistic, and shoots those #12 rubber bands very well.

And, you can load up 8 rubber bands.


M1911 Rubber Band Gun Remix

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5173824.

This is a remix of muzz64's Smart Stands. Great stands/design!

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3416790

After reading the Comments section, these are the improvements I added.

It...

is easy to assemble: no breaking.
uses hardware for the bolt and nut instead of plastic.
has detents every 10° of rotation between the swivel and the base.
has 2 inner stops to align it when closed
has hollowed out swivels to reduce plastic use and speed up print time.

Hardware used is M4x40mm Hex Head Machine Screws and M4 Nut

You'll need 1 of each for the phone stand.
2 of each for the tablet stand.

Smart Stand Redux

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3085316.

UPDATE 10/22/2019: based on a user request, a Base105 and Slider105 have been added as STL's to accommodate spool widths from 85mm up to 105mm.

UPDATE 4/26/19: Based on a suggestion, the Base is now 4 mm wider to accommodate larger spools.

UPDATE: Added a redesigned Side name Side608 which utilizes a standard "608" skateboard bearing; STEP, SLDPRT and STL included.


Inspiration credit goes to filamentry, the original TUSH creator. 

I wanted a spool holder that was a TUSH but was easily adjustable AND 1-piece/portable AND stable. I think I got it.

Firstly, the bearings I used are NOT 608 "skateboard bearings."
They were purchased from my local ACE hardware and are labeled as .748in OD, .2362in ID, and .2362in W, which makes them a bit smaller than 608's.
They do, however, work just fine for me.
The STEP and SLDPRT (SolidWorks) files are included so you can make changes as you wish.

The Base holds the 2 Sliders, which move in and out on a rack and pinion between the Sliders and the Knob. The Sliders are retained by the Knob as it is held to the base with one(1) M3 x 8mm button-head screw through the Retainer and Base into the Knob.

If you would be so kind, please post your Makes.

Thank You!

Spool Holder - Adjust your TUSH

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4121096.

Wireless plug in wings.

Another rendition of these:

Spitfire Mk IX       https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4143803
F4U Corsair         https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4178322
Il-2 Sturmovik      https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4132256
EDGE 540 46”     https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4128056
EDGE 540 73" https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4368656
Qtrainer                https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4137667
P-51                     https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4186416
Focke-Wulf Ta152H      https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4195584



These utilize 2.54mm JST-XH connectors and standard servo connectors..

These were designed and implemented BEFORE the Inner wings were assembled to the gondolas. 

You could retrofit them to an assembled plane, but you'd need a "template on a stick," a steady set of hands when gluing, and a long magnetic screwdriver.  

Each Inner and Outer wing port consists of a Mounting Ring and a Plug Plate.

An Install Template is screwed to the corresponding Mounting Ring, and with CA applied 5mm down inside the wing tube, the assembly gets pressed into the wing tube. 
The Template is positioned flat against and all the way to the Front of the wing tube.

Once the glue is dry, the Template is unscrewed and is replaced by the Plug Plate. The Template can then be discarded/recycled.

A Filler Plate is used on each Outer Wing behind the Plug Plate, to retain the XH connector and allow for easy repairs if necessary.  It is NOT glued in.

To keep it from being pulled out when the Outer Wing is removed, cut away the little locking tabs in the slots of the Inner Wing connector, and CA glue the connector into the Plug Plate.

The connections to the XH base connector in the Inner Wings are the Female pins that came with the JST-XH kit. They are crimped, pressed onto the pins, soldered, then heatshrunk.

The connections in the Outer Wings are the same Female pins from the XH kit as used on the back of the Inner Wing connector wiring.

The additional is just standard servo connectors.

NOTES:

Printed in PLA+, 25% Infill

All Templates, Plug Plates and Mounting Rings are printed face down.

The Left and Right Filler Plates are printed with the indentation UP.

I used 2 ea M3x10 self-tapping screws to secure each Plug Plate to it's Mounting Ring.

If you find that this makes your flying sessions MORE enjoyable with LESS hassle, please consider buying me a cup of coffee at   

paypal.me/MakeItMakeItMakeIt

Thank You!





B-25 Mitchell - Wing Servo Connectors - 3DLabPrint

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3092256.

After building my filament cabinets, I needed a door stay to hold them open, instead of resting the door on my head. :-)

So, I designed and made this/these.

The Door Bracket attaches (obviously?) to the door, and the Pivot Base attaches to the inside of the cabinet. The 2-piece Strut attaches with 1 M4 x 30 screw and nut to the Door Bracket, and simply slides through the Pivot Base.

Open the door all the way and the Pivot Base pivots down and catches the end of the Strut.
Lift the door and push up on the Strut to release, then close the door.

I have included STL, STEP and SLDPRT files.

Filament Cabinet Door Stay

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3774108.

First off: Initial credit to pheneeny for his AM8 design.
I actually bought an A8 just to upgrade it, back in July of 2018.

Then, major credit as well to BLV for his MGN12 upgrade.
As he said, “Why not?”
The linear rails make all the diff, IMO.

And thirdly, major appreciation to Paul Cole, who so kindly sent me info about his Mega and dual Z stepper functionality. Thank You!

UPDATE: I have added Z-axis pillow blocks to isolate the Z lead screws from their motors.
See Thing https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3933127  for details.

Well, the only A8 parts in it are the motors, their wire harnesses, and the burnt out hot bed serving as a plate for a stick on heating element.

It’s on RAMPS 1.6, with TMC2208's, running Marlin 1.1.9.

So it’s not an AM8, but it does have the BLV MGN characteristics.

But I believe that’s about all.

I printed most of the parts for this on my Maker Select V2.
Once the Mi3 was functional, I printed the last few cover parts for it on it.

I have not included any STL's or design files, but if anyone is interested in anything, please Message me. It was all done in SolidWorks.

I had a vision when I started this, and that was to keep it as clean as I could, meaning: no visible wires. A wire harness/bundle made to look good, yes, but not wires.

The printer frame is 2040 and 2020 aluminum extrusion from Misumi, but it's mostly all covered by plastic cover plates, simply because I did not like the color of the so-called "black anodized." Looked more like brown to me, hence the covers. They all snap on/off.

The frame is all tapped, drilled and assembled using M5 x 25mm socket head capscrews.
The ONLY bracing it has is the 2 gantry supports: no other corner bracketry or bracing of any type is used or needed. I pick it up by the top cross-rail and carry it. It weighs 39 lbs.

I changed the top cross-rail to a 2020 and ran it across the tops of the gantry verticals. That gave me back a whole lot more vertical space for taller parts.

The entire printer sits on a plastic support frame, which is surrounded by a plastic decorative shroud. The support frame has 3 4010 Noctua exhaust fans for getting rid of the heat.

There is a sheet of plexi-glass between the printer and the support frame, so nothing falls into the visible underbelly.

The printer then then screws down to the support frame in the 4 corners under the snap-on covers.

I put all the electronics in a drawer just to get them OFF the printer and out of sight.
All wiring easily unplugs/attaches.

The Y plate initially used 3 carriage blocks: 2 on 1 side and  1 on the other. 
I recently added back in the 4th block: eliminates the flex in the Y plate.

The hot bed is mounted on 3 points: 2 corners and the center of the opposite side, and locked with locking thumb-wheels.

The Z axis is managed/driven by independent Z motors and end stop switches utilizing the dual stepper feature in Marlin to auto level the X at the start of every print automatically.
Those of you who own an AnyCubic i3 Mega (and some others) know just what I'm talking about. Heaven.       

The hot bed is a self-adhesive from GulfCoast Robotics, and the cable chain rides on the plexi separator sheet to the rear and down into the drawer.

The extruder is an exact clone of the upgraded DD extruder I have on my Maker Select V2.
Micro Swiss everything, all metal, hardened .04 nozzle, screw-in thermistor, even the metal extruder mounting plate. It allowed me to hang the extruder directly underneath the X axis rail.

There is much more to say, but.... I'll let the pics do the rest of the talking. :-)

Thanks for viewing!

And oh yeah, it prints SO nice too.

I've added a couple pics of some RC airplane parts I'm printing from 3DLabPrint.com. 


The Mi3

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4137667.

"WIRES? WE don' need no stinking WIRES!!!"

As with my other implementations, 

B-25 Mitchell            https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4121096
Spitfire Mk IX       https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4143803
F4U Corsair         https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4178322
Il-2 Sturmovik      https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4132256
EDGE 540 46”       https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4128056
EDGE 540 73"       https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4368656
P-51D  https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4186416
Focke-Wulf Ta152H      https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4195584


here's one for the Qtrainer.

2.54mm JST-XH connectors with standard servo ends.

This uses a pair of Wing Locater Tabs to position the wing.

Easy, templated installation, adjustable.

Designed for and installed in a fully assembled plane.

Qtrainer - Wing Servo Connector - 3DLabPrint

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4912187.

I wasn't pleased with how the clips flopped around inside the base, so I remixed the base a bit...

No more clips: the rubber band slips over the protrusions inside.

Also added a circular indentation on the front for orientation purposes.

As with the original, no Support required.

Also added an Extender that the Base snaps onto. Gives the target more mass and stability. It features a center located attachment hole.


Jumping Target Remix

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4876315.

This Sunshade Extension is designed to be used with my Galaxy Tab A 10. 1 Sunshade, found here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4632715

The initial Sunshade I designed works, but as the tablet screen is glossy, it allows too much reflection back at you unless you have your face buried in it.

The extension makes the view port deeper, helping to reduce the glare.

It slips over the front edge of the Sunshade, then the sides and back fit to it, being retained by mild tension and flat neodymium bar magnets in the 4 pieces.

2 different Side options exist: the L-R Sides are for use with the Back Panel, and the Left Side and Right Side do not use the Back Panel.)

Be forewarned: it adds some weight, so be sure your tablet holder is strong enough.


Galaxy Tab A 10.1 Sunshade Extension

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4632311.

Had a tripod gathering dust and thought "Why not?"

Designed for the X8 RC, coupled with a PGYTech Tablet mount, holding a Galaxy Tab A 10.1, on an inexpensive tripod, with a custom sunshade 
(see Thing https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4632715  ) 

The RC snaps into the bracket, and the locking clamps secure the tablet mount to the assembly.

It's a different feel to flying, you can "hang" on the RC while your head is buried in the sunshade.

Plenty of room for your hands, the antennas can always point upward, and it rotates and pivots on the tripod head to accommodate changes in flight headings.

If you're a designer, just model up a tripod adapter in place of mine and glue it on instead.


FIMI X8 SE 2020 RC Tripod Adapter

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4632715.

UPDATE 11/21/2020
I designed a smooth version of the Center Panel, called Rev2
New R2 sides should be printed for it.
I did this in 2 colors, inspired by Mroek's shade color choice.
The trim strips are optional.



This sunshade fits my Galaxy Tab A 10.1, and accommodates my PGYTech Tablet Mount, which I use when flying my FIMI X8 SE 202 quad.

It slide-locks together, the Center into to the Sides.

The fit of the sides to the tablet is intentionally snug.

When installed, all buttons are accessible.




Galaxy Tab A 10.1 SunShade

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3297669.

It was time: The screeching of the worn out X axis LM8LUU bearings had to go!

So I designed bearing blocks for the upper and lower X axis that use 2 LM8UU Igus Drylin bearings end-to-end in the sleeve, retained by internal e-clips at the ends.

In this manner I've essentially emulated an Igus Drylin LM8LUU, which I don't believe Igus produces yet. I've been wrong before.

(Note: My cooling fan has been removed for photo purposes.)

I use a Thorpe duct and adapter, so the lower bearing block is shaped to fit and allow for that. 
You can use 2 Uppers if you don't have that specific lower need.

The Drylin bearings press-fit in snugly (not tight) from either end and the e-clips keep 'em in place.
The e-clips were taken from the aluminum bearing blocks that were part of an Anet A8 kit, and they measure 15.75mm wide x 1mm thick.

The worn out bearing noise is gone, it is smooth, silent and accurate once again.

STL, SLDPRT, and STEP files included.

If you would be so kind, please post your Makes.

Thank You!

X Axis Drylin Bearing Blocks - Maker Select V2

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4132256.

Along the lines of my other workups:

B-25 Mitchell                     https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4121096
Spitfire Mk IX       https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4143803
F4U Corsair         https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4178322
EDGE 540 46”       https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4128056
EDGE 540 73" https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4368656
Qtrainer   https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4137667
P-51D  https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4186416
Focke-Wulf Ta152H      https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4195584



Fully templated, easy installation, adjustable.

Uses 2.54mm JST-XH connectors, standard servo connectors, and 3 M3x8mm self tapping screws.

Designed for and installed in a fully assembled plane.

NOTE: Unless you use Standoffs/Clevises, I reccommend that you install and connect the Elevator servo/pushrod before installing this mod. There might not be enough room to get the Z-bend pliers in there afterwards. 


IL-2 Sturmovik - Wing Servo Connector - 3DLabPrint

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3494297.

UPDATE: A Rev2 Corner Foot has been added. It's been beefed up a little, the side tab has been widened, and side frame rail now rests in the bottom of the tab.


The printer needed some feet.

Just something to get in between the metal frame and the table, quiet it down.

These are they.

My Z-braces (GulfCoast Robotics) leave the front and rear bottom frame edges exposed, so it was a corner wrap for the 4 outer corners and a full wrap for the gantrys.

Doublestick tape and some thin tool chest foam drawer liner for cushion.

The printer gets lifted 2mm by the feet plus whatever thickness your tape/foam is.

I'm liking it so far: seems quieter. :-)

STL, STEP and SLDPRT included.

If you would be so kind, please post your Makes.

Thank You!




Printer Feet - Maker Select V2/Duplicator i3

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4186416.

And another "Wireless Wing" to add to the collection.

B-25 Mitchell https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4121096
F4U Corsair https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4178322
Spitfire Mk IX https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4143803
Il-2 Sturmovik https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4132256
EDGE 540 46” https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4128056
EDGE 540 73" https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4368656
Qtrainer https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4137667
Focke-Wulf Ta152H      https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4195584


2.54mm JST-XH connectors with standard servo connectors.

Easy, templated install.

Uses 3 ea M3 x 8mm self-tapping screws.

Designed for and installed in a fully assembled plane, with plenty of access/space to install electronics.


P-51 Mustang - Wing Servo Connectors - 3DLabPrint

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4128056.

Along the lines of my other workups:

B-25 Mitchell        https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4121096
Spitfire Mk IX       https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4143803
F4U Corsair         https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4178322
Il-2 Sturmovik      https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4132256
EDGE 540 73" https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4368656
Qtrainer                https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4137667
P-51D  https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4186416
Focke-Wulf Ta152H      https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4195584


Once again, 2.54mm JST-XH sockets/headers and standard servo connectors.

Fully templated, easy installation, adjustable.

A Mounting Bracket for the Fuselage, with a Plug Plate screwed to it using an M3x8 self tapping screw

The Wing uses a glued in Backing Plate, a Filler Plate, and an adjustable Plug Plate attached using 2  M3x16 self-tapping screws.

Designed and installed to a fully assembled airplane.

Printed in PLA+

Arrange parts according to the build plate illustration.

The Wing Back Plate, F-Bracket, F-Plug Plate and W-Plug Plate should be 35% Infill.

All other parts can be 10% Infill


Pay close attention to the F-Bracket positioning/placement for slicing,
The large flat must be fully against the build plate as in the illustration.

FLIERS!!

If you find that this makes your flying sessions MORE enjoyable with LESS hassle, please consider buying me a cup of coffee at   

paypal.me/MakeItMakeItMakeIt

Thank You!


EDGE 540 46" - Wing Servo Connector - 3DLabPrint

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4178322.

Say GOODBYE to crossed ailerons!

Just "Plug-and-Fly!"

Add another to the list:

B-25 Mitchell                    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4121096
Spitfire Mk IX       https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4143803
Il-2 Sturmovik      https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4132256
EDGE 540 46”       https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4128056
EDGE 540 73" https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4368656
Qtrainer   https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4137667
P-51D https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4186416
Focke-Wulf Ta152H      https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4195584


As with my other setups, this uses 4 ea 6-pin 2.54mm JST-XH connectors along with standard servo connectors.

Easy, templated installation.

Also requires 3 ea M3 x 8mm self-tapping screws.

Designed for and installed in a fully assembled and outfitted (electronics) plane.
At minimum, you will need the rudder and elevator servos installed, even if only temporarily.


F4U Corsair - Wing Servo Connectors - 3DLabPrint

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3933127.

Initial credit to BLV for the MGN design, and further credit to ballanux for the pillow block inclusion.

My Mi3 needed one last mod, and this was it.

It's printed as 2 pieces, then CA glued/assembled onto the frame, first screw the base, then glue/screw the wing.

It shows solid couplers but I now use flexible ones. 

It's an easy upgrade for any MGN12 printer build, as if you've used the BLV Z motor mount, this will install right in place of it, and there should be no need for any further disassembly.

SLDPRT and STL files are included.

Please post your Makes.

Thank You!


Z Motor Mount for an MGN12 with Pillow Block/Bearing

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4368656.

Let's add another "Wireless Wing" to the collection.

B-25 Mitchell
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4121096

Spitfire Mk IX
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4143803

F4U Corsair
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4178322

Il-2 Sturmovik
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4132256

EDGE 540 46”
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4128056

Qtrainer
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4137667

P-51
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4186416

Just Plug-and-Fly!

Requires some 2.54mm JST-XH connectors, standard servo connectors, servo wire, and  2 ea M3 x 8mm self-tapping screws.

Easy install.

Can be installed before assembling UP pieces (preferred) or after assembly (not as convenient).

This install is based on the New School Direct Linked Aileron Setup. Old School will likely require some servo extensions.

Notes:

Printed in eSun PLA+

Arrange parts on the build plate according to the illustrations.

Cura: Support Touching Build Plate, Infill 15%

Trim away the 2 little locking tabs inside the slots of the XH base connector that is to be used in the Fuselage. 

FLIERS!!!

If you find that this makes your flying sessions MORE enjoyable with LESS hassle, please consider buying me a cup of coffee at      

paypal.me/MakeItMakeItMakeIt 

Thank You! 

EDGE 540v3 73" - Wing Servo Connector - 3DLabPrint

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4744857.

I modified my X8 RC to allow it to accept threaded SMA connectors, letting me use different antennas.

I wanted to keep the stock antennas for comparison, so I worked up these: 
I call them SARS.  Stock Antenna Replacement Shrouds

It requires some cutting, soldering and crimping of the SMA connectors onto the existing stock antenna wiring.

FIMI X8 SE 2020 Stock Antenna Replacement Shroud

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3581988.

Inspiration for this design goes to AzzA's Z Extensions.

First off, I do not know if these will work with any other Z brace other than the GulfCoast Robotics Front Mount Z Brace kit, as this is what I have on my Maker.

The original AzzA Z extensions worked, but there were some things about them I didn't care for:
1. There were 4 visible hardware holes after moving the crossmember up.
2. Those 4 hardware holes were not being used that were before.
3. The Z-rod bracket becomes improperly positioned after the mod.
4. The side tab of the crossmember was tweaked/improperly aligned with the gantry after the mod.

So, I set about resolving all of those issues, and this is it.

No more visible holes, all the hardware used, Z-rod bracket and side tab both properly positioned.

If you've previously installed the AzzA Z extensions, you will need an additional 4 each M3 x 8mm socket head cap screws and M3 Nyloc nuts.

If you are working from a stock machine, you will need an additional 8 each  M3 x 8mm socket head capscrews and M3 Nyloc nuts.

There is only 1   Z extension, a Right hand version. Add and mirror a 2nd in your slicer.

Don't forget the 2 spacers: 1 for each side.

I've included STL, STEP and SLDPRTs of the Z Extension and the Spacer.

If you would be so kind, please Post your Makes.

Thank You.




Z-Extensions- Maker Select V2/Duplicator i3

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4195584.

NOTE: As of this posting (3/2/20, 11:00EST) , there currently are no STL previews displaying.    
Wish I could fix that, but......
In the meantime, I've added some screenshots.


Let's add another "Wireless Wing" to the collection.

Just Plug-and-Fly!

This implementation is specifically for the Screw-in wing. 
I have not printed/tested the rubber-band wing setup.

B-25 Mitchell                     https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4121096
Spitfire Mk IX       https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4143803
F4U Corsair         https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4178322
Il-2 Sturmovik      https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4132256
EDGE 540 46”    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4128056
EDGE 540 73"    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4368656
Qtrainer               https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4137667
P-51                     https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4186416

2.54mm JST-XH connectors with standard servo connectors.

Easy, templated install.

Uses 3 ea M3 x 8mm self-tapping screws.

Designed for and installed in a fully assembled plane, with plenty of access/space to install electronics.


Focke-Wulf Ta152H - Wing Servo Connector - 3DLabPrint

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4962297.

UPDATE:
Added a 2nd cover named CoverH, it has a viewport for those who # their batteries
Also extended the Clip for better retention.


This keeps those contacts clean.
Slide it on, it snaps into place with a light click.
Push the tab back and it slides right back off.

This is a 2-piece assembly and requires gluing.

FIMI X8 SE 2020 Battery Contact Cover

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4963485.

Picked up a 12 inch long drill bit set off Amazon.
It came in a vinyl wrap, I wanted cases.

I split it across two, one holding 3/16", 7/32", 5/16" and 1/2" diameter bits,
and the other holding  1/8", 11/64", 3/16", 1/4", 3/8" and 5/32" diameter bits.

The lids are held on by neodymium magnets.

12 in Drill Bit Cases

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3469815.

Do you have a 12864 or a 2004 Smart Display LCD?

Do you like the little dial or would you prefer something a bit more substantial?

Me and my fat fingers wanted something larger, so here's what I got.

It's 2 pieces, letting you add an insert of the same or different color, whichever you want.

The Cover simply super-glues to the Dial.

It's a snug fit over the shaft. Better that than too loose.

I've included the STL, STEP and SLDPRTs for both components.

If you would be so kind, please post your Makes.

Thank You!

Smart Display Dial Knob

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3371339.

After building my filament cabinets, I needed to be able to monitor/control the humidity inside them.

Got a pair of these small hygrometers from Amazon  
( https://www.amazon.com/Hygrometer-Thermometer-Humidifiers-Dehumidifiers-Greenhouse/dp/B07BLY177S/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=hygrometer&qid=1548076627&s=Home+Improvement&sr=1-6 ) 

and designed these mounts to hold them. 

When I bought them they came as a 2-pack. 
(Currently, that manufacturer/model only seems to be available in a 5-pack.)

I used dbl-stick tape to hold the mounts to the back wall of the cabinets, and the hygrometers just slip-fit in to the housings.

Cutouts around the perimeter of the mount allow the hygrometer to breathe and do its job.

I also use a mini rechargeable dehumidifier in each cabinet to control the humidity.

(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000H0XFCS/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) 

STL, STEP and SLDPRT files are included.

If you would be so kind, please post your Makes.

Thank You!

Hygrometer Mounting Holder

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3414455.

UPDATE 3/2/2019: I was seeing that the top of the cooling fan was not snugged up flush to the heatsink, creating a gap and making the fan angle away from the heatsink at the top.
I added about .75mm to the overall height of the spacer. This resolved the issue and the fan now sits flush to the heatsink.

--

For those of us with a Maker Select V2 (and maybe other models as well), it's always a PITA when you have to disassemble the extruder, and those little black heatsink spacers fall out and roll away.

I said, No more.

I designed a 1-piece spacer that does the job just fine and no more falling parts.

The word TOP faces up with the slight indent towards the heatsink.

STL, SLDPRT and STEP files are included.

If you would be so kind, please post your Makes.

Thank You!




Heatsink Spacer-Maker Select V2/Duplicator i3 

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4961549.

This little gizmo slips over the battery to visually let you know it needs charging and to not use it.

Choice of Dewalt 20V Max and/or Milwaukee M18 Red Lithium


Discharged Battery Indicator

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4799647.

Picked up a Rockler Jig-It tool set for installing BLUM TANDEM soft-close drawer slides.
My case is MUCH smaller then the over-sized display box it all came in.

"Fingers" in the cover keep everything in place when closed, regardless of orientation.

2ea  6mm x 2.75mm neodymium magnets hold it closed.

0.9mm steel wire acts as a hinge. Can be larger if desired.

Rockler Jig-It Case

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4752637.

My wooden one was wearing out so...

Just a few twists and it's all good.

Enjoy.


Compact Herb Grinder

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4745244.

Picked up a DeWalt DW1450 Metric Tap and Die set at Home Depot.
As it came in a blister pack, it needed a better place to rest.
"Fingers" in the cover keep everything in place when closed, regardless of orientation.

I exchanged the stock taps for Rocaris gold spiral taps (Amazon).
The stock taps fit.......but I designed it for the spirals.

2ea   8mm x 3mm neodymium magnets hold it closed.

1.5mm steel wire acts as a hinge.



Tap and Die Case

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4833595.

Just a simple press-on cap for the motor shafts when the props are off.
Keeps stuff out of the prop drive openings.
Fits tight enough to not fall off when inverted but not so tight as to mess with the springs.

Printed in TPU, so they're soft.

FIMI X8 SE 2020 Motor Cap

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5204243.

Bought a roll of GT2 belt, needed a dispenser for it.

15% Infill, flat on the plate, needs 1 M3x6mm screw.

It sizes at a 105mm diameter.

GT2 Belt Case/Dispenser

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4637787.

From eBay:  External-Power-Supply-Mini-Battery-Unit-for-Xiaomi-FIMI-X8SE-2020

It allows you to add an external battery for extended flight times, or use an external device running off the X8 battery.


So here's a little tool to make installing the delicate connector easier with no damage.

Position the circuit over the pins, then press down with the tool.

It's delicate: take care not to damage the outer pin holes if you have to remove it.

Use the flat toothed tool to remove the pad when desired.
Slide it under with the flat side up, then press down to lift it off.

Enjoy.

FIMI X8 SE 2020 External Battery Connector Install and Removal Tools

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3452399.

Hot Bed Cable management.

I actually started way back when with a Thing that fit over the exposed edge of the back left corner of the frame to prevent the cable from catching when the bed moved, but the cable still just flopped around, and I didn't really care for that.

Then I printed up another Thing, a cable chain installed at the back of the hot bed, but I was not pleased with how that was working out either, as it would get moved/hit by the print cooling fan on large prints.


So I came up with this.

It's 2 parts: the Cable Holder and the Cable Loop.

Firstly, I use an aftermarket GulfCoast Robotics 1-piece Y-plate for my Monoprice Maker Select V2.

This Thing won't work on any other plate without modding it.

The Cable Holder simply press/slide fits in/onto the top of the Y-plate.
The friction fit alone keeps it firmly in place.

Then the Cable Loop friction slide-fits into it and over the hot bed cable to retain it.

It doesn't so much clamp the cable: it just retains it, letting it flex a little, but far less than I was getting with my previous arrangement.

I'm very pleased with how it came out and how it does what I intended it to do.

There are STL, STEP and SLDPRT included.

If you would be so kind, please post your Makes.

Thank You!

Hot Bed Cable Retainer - Maker Select V2/Duplicator

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4201418.

A circuit board should never be left unprotected.

Simple 2-piece case.

I recommend using transparent/translucent filament for the Top of the case, so as to see the indicator LEDS when programming.

Now you can toss it in the flight bag with no worries.

YEP ESC Programming Card Case

Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5203466.

I needed something to hold a length of 2020 while working on an extruder assembly.
This is what I got.

They're 60mm from the table to the bottom of the 2020.

Scale their Z if you want them taller/shorter.

Shown are in PLA+, 15% Infill, No support.

Orient on the print plate as shown.

2020 Stand

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