This human skull model can be used for learning anatomy or just freaking out your friends. See here for assembly video: https://youtu.be/dm0RT-1eFFc
To assemble with magnets, you will need:
•	66 of 1/8” x 1/16” cylindrical
•	36 of 1/4” x 1/8” cylindrical
www.kjmagnetics.com is a good source of magnets.
Files are provided in anatomical orientation. You will need to reorient and prepare them according to your preferences, equipment, and skill level. Here are some considerations:
•	Orient outer surfaces upwards so that the surfaces in contact with support structures are less visible in the final model.
•	As much as possible, avoid orienting the magnetic anchors downwards. There are some situations in which this is unavoidable. These can be cleaned up post-print.
Here are considerations for assembly:
•	Before inserting magnets, clean out the magnet anchors with a 1/8” or 1/4” drill bit to remove any imperfections, allowing the magnets to sit properly.
•	Ensure that you insert magnets with polarity oriented to allow proper connection of bones.
•	You may need to use glue to secure some of the magnets in place. CA glue works well.
Every attempt has been made to maintain anatomical correctness; however, the following small modifications were necessary to optimize the files for 3D printing:
•	The nasal bones, lacrimal bones and upper teeth are fused to ipsilateral maxilla. Lower teeth are fused to the mandible. They are too small and thin to print and assemble on their own.
•	Some areas of bone have been thickened to support the magnet anchors.
•	Gaps have been created or expended between fused joints to allow these bones to be separated.
•	The perpendicular plate of the ethmoid bone has been removed. It is too thin and there is limited space for it to fit properly.
•	Bones of the inner ear are not included.
•	This model includes only bony structures.
"BodyParts3D, © The Database Center for Life Science licensed under CC Attribution-Share Alike 2.1 Japan".


Full Size Anatomically-Correct 18-Piece Magnetic Human Skull Model

Full Skull Display model.stl

Karambit Design 
Separate STL files included 

Folding Pocket Karambit

Folding Pocket Karambit.STEP

This item is for use with the #GridFinity system by Zach Freedman:

[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ra_9zU-mnl8](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ra_9zU-mnl8)

**UPDATE:**
Taking Zack's suggestion from his latest Gridfinity video, I have added a version (see attached Spacers 2.0.f3d) that not only adds a provision for keeping the magnet mounts in the corners but is also fully parametric up to 8x8. Thanks to KptnAutismus on github for the updated templates.


This is a collection of height adapting spacers for the Gridfinity system. You might ask "Why the heck would I ever need this?". The answer is relatively simple, while Gridfinity does an excellent job of maximizing your XY Axis storage space, you may want items at the back to sit at a higher level for accessibility, or maybe you want to stack something on top of two modules in your system but they are of different heights. My spacers will open up the world of the Z axis to your Gridfinity layout.

Sizes available are 1/4 (250), 1/2 (500) and 3/4 (750). Layouts available are:

1x1
1x2
1x3
1x4

2x2
2x3
2x4

3x3
3x3

4x4

Try it out today, spacers can go above or before your modules and consist of the outer perimeters of the Storage bin template.

Comment below if you need a custom size or height!

#Gridfinity Height Adaptive Spacers

2x2x025.stl

Textured snap-together eggs large enough to hold a few chocolates. Touch them up with a bit of colour?

See here for video: https://youtu.be/J8gPYT0c8-4 

Download the full set:
Download the full set:
Diamond: https://than.gs/m/812746 
Square: https://than.gs/m/812751 
Circle: https://than.gs/m/812752 

The best way to print these is as oriented, with the model raised off the build plate 3mm and tree supports underneath. You will likely need to smooth the surfaces. If they are too tight, snapping them together and apart a few times will loosen it up.

Other snap-together eggs:
Egg Snaps: https://than.gs/m/810065
Basketball: https://thangs.com/mythangs/file/796742 
Tennis Ball: https://thangs.com/mythangs/file/796748 
Baseball: https://thangs.com/mythangs/file/796753


Textured Snap Egg (Diamond)

Display only do not print.stl

This anatomically correct human hand model uses 2.85mm filament to attach and hold the bones together. The filament allows for some movement between bones, however excessive pressure or repeated movements may weaken and break the filament. This model is designed for displaying, studying or light use, but will not stand up to rough classroom handling.
See here for assembly video: https://youtu.be/MDwHPybFZGk
This is an advanced project to print and assemble. Some anatomy knowledge is helpful but not necessary. Regardless, you will be an expert by the time you are done!
Every attempt has been made to maintain anatomical accuracy with the following exceptions. The pisiform bone has been fused on to the triquetrum and some ends of the distal and middle phalanges have been slightly enlarged to allow insertion of the filament.
Printing Instructions
A file of the complete hand model is included for reference only. 
Carpal Bones: Raise these off the print bed around 3mm and add some sort of support. “Tree” supports in Cura works well. IMPORTANT: Print the “Hamate-Capitate-Trapezoid-Lunate Cluster” as is! They are in anatomical position and separating them will make it nearly impossible to assemble the carpal bones. Do not separate or reposition these bones for printing and leave the support structure on until all the carpal bones have been connected. 
Metacarpals and Phalanges: The metacarpals and phalanges are positioned from left to right: fifth digit, forth digit, third digit, second digit and thumb. Keep track of these as you print them! It might be helpful to leave the support structure on until right before use. Labelling them might be helpful too.
Stand vs full length bones: The radius and ulna have been split forming distal and proximal sections. The hand bones above attach to the distal portions of the radius and ulna. The stand supports the cut ends of the distal portions of the radius and ulna to hold the hand in an upright display position. Alternately, you can print and attach the proximal portions of the radius and ulna to have the complete bones.
Assembly Instructions
You can follow along on this video here: https://youtu.be/MDwHPybFZGk 
See above for a picture of the pathways of connecting filament through the carpal bones. You will need to use a very strong glue; CA glue works well. Always to dry fits before gluing and be sure to trim the filament to the proper length before the final glue. Allow time for glue to dry between each step.
1.	Thread a first length of filament through the distal tunnel of the “Hamate-Capitate-Trapezoid-Lunate Cluster.” Thread a second filament through the lunate. You may find it helpful to pre-shape the filament prior to inserting, and to pre-shape the ends that will insert into the triquetrum.
2.	Apply glue to the holes in the triquetrum and secure on to the ends of the two filaments.
3.	Dry fit the scaphoid on to the second filament emerging from the lunate and ensure that the filament length allows it to sit close enough to the lunate that the filament going through the scaphoid will meet up with the hole in the capitate.  Apply glue to the hole in the scaphoid and capitate. Secure the scaphoid to the lunate and insert a third filament through the scaphoid into the capitate.
4.	Dry fit the trapezium on to the end of the first filament emerging from the trapezoid and ensure that the trapezium sits close enough to the trapezoid so that the filament running through the trapezium will meet up with the hole in the scaphoid. Secure in place with glue. You can now remove the support material.
5.	Thread a section of filament through the proximal ends of metacarpals 2, 3, 4 and 5. Cut to length.
6.	Using 10mm lengths of filament, attach the metacarpals to the carpals.
7.	Using 10mm lengths of filament, attach the proximal phalanges to the metacarpals.
8.	Using 10mm lengths of filament, attach the middle phalanges to the proximal phalanges. Remember, the thumb does not have a middle phalange.
9.	Using 5mm lengths of filament, attach the 2, 3, 4, and 5th distal phalanges to the middle phalanges. Use a 10mm length to attach the 1st distal phalange.
10.	Attach the distal radius to the distal ulna with a 25mm section of filament. The easiest way to get the spacing correct is to place the bones in the stand.
11.	Attach the lunate and scaphoid to the ulna and radius. If you want to use the stand, you do not need to print the proximal sections of the radius and ulna. You are finished!
12.	If you want the full radius and ulna, attach the proximal radius and ulna together with a 25mm section of filament and glue them on to the distal radius and ulna. You are finished!
By now you should be able to get advanced standing in a university-level anatomy class! I hope you enjoy this model and can post pictures of your finished project!
"BodyParts3D, © The Database Center for Life Science licensed under CC Attribution-Share Alike 2.1 Japan".


Full Size Anatomically Correct Human Hand Model

Reference Full Hand.stl

Sig P229 Gun

IPhone 13 Phone Case in a Batman, Superman and a version with no logo.

I will make more with other logos and for other phones. Let me know if you have any suggestions.

STL-files for 3D-printing

Check out my other models at: https://thangs.com/mattias.hellberg.95

IPhone 13 Phone Case

IPhone 13 cases.STEP

Dispositivo que colabora y protege la mano de cortes al romper una ampolla

Rompe ampollas.stl

These anatomically correct vertebrae use precisely positioned ball-and-socket joints to mimic joint kinematics. 
See here for video: https://youtu.be/2zp8qpz0Sl8 
See here for a smaller display version: https://thangs.com/mythangs/file/60341
These are challenging files to print and require some post-print cleaning, but the finished product is worth it!
The files provided are oriented with the socket directly upwards to provide the cleanest print of the socket, which is critical for the joints to connect and move properly. Changing the orientation may result in a weak or malformed print of the socket.
I highly recommend labelling the vertebrae as you print them! Attaching incorrect vertebrae may damage the ball-and-socket joint.
While the ball-and-socket joints are sturdy once attached, they are not designed for repeated snapping in and out. 
You will need to select a support type that can support the large flat sections of the vertebral body, as well as the thinner sections of the laminae and spinous and transverse processes. In Cura, the “tree” option works well.
The spinous processes of the T1 to T9 thoracic vertebrae are very vertically oriented and become unstable and top-heavy when printing. They may not be adequately supported with standard supports. Secondary files are provided with enhanced support for the bases of the spinous processes. If you use these, you will still need to set up your preferred supports for the rest of the vertebrae.
Anatomically, the odontoid process of the C2 axis is held in place by the transverse ligament of the C1 atlas. In this model, the transverse ligament has been “ossified” leaving a hole for the odontoid process to click into place. This hole is intentionally tight to hold it in place. Expect to use a bit for force to snap them together, or file down the surfaces of the odontoid process as needed.
"BodyParts3D, © The Database Center for Life Science licensed under CC Attribution-Share Alike 2.1 Japan".

Full-sized Anatomically Correct Articulating Spine

Lumber Vertebrae Display.stl

This anatomically correct human foot model uses 2.85mm filament to attach and hold the bones together. The filament allows for some movement between bones, however excessive pressure or repeated movements may weaken and break the filament. This model is designed for displaying, studying or light use, but will not stand up to rough classroom handling.
See here for assembly video: https://youtu.be/Qn_jcQ9kIfc 
This is an advanced project to print and assemble. Some anatomy knowledge is helpful but not necessary. Regardless, you will be an expert by the time you are done!
Every attempt has been made to maintain anatomical accuracy with the following exceptions. The sesamoid bones have been fused to the first metatarsal, and the proximal bones have been fused together.  These bones are too small and fragile to be printed and articulated separately.
Printing Instructions
A file of the complete foot model is included for reference only. 
Raising the bones off the print bed around 3mm and adding support helps to maintain the contours. “Tree” supports in Cura works well. 
The metatarsal and phalanges are positioned from left to right: fifth (little) toe, forth toe, third toe, second toe and first (big) toe. Keep track of these as you print them! It might be helpful to leave the support structure on until right before use. Labelling them might be helpful too.
There are two versions of the calcaneus: a plain one and one with hole to attach to the optional stand. Print the one you want.
Assembly Instructions
You can follow along on this video here: https://youtu.be/Qn_jcQ9kIfc 
See above for a picture of the pathways of connecting filament through the tarsal bones. You will need to use a very strong glue; CA glue works well. Always to dry fits before gluing and be sure to trim the filament to the proper length before the final glue. Allow time for glue to dry between each step.
1.	Connect the calcaneus and tarsal bone with one 25mm and one 10mm segment of filament. Glue in place.
2.	Thread two long sections of filament through the navicular. Start with 80mm for the medial hole and 40mm for the lateral hole. Connect the two filaments to the tarsal bone and glue in place.
3.	Attach an 80mm filament to the lateral aspect of the medial cuneiform.
4.	Thread the middle and lateral cuneiforms on to the medial cuneiform and attach the three cuneiforms on to the navicular.
5.	Attache cuboid on to the lateral cuneiform and thread a 60mm filament through the cuboid into the calcaneus.
6.	Insert 10mm segments of filament into the remaining holes of the cuneiforms and cuboid.
7.	Thread an 80mm segment of filament through the proximal ends of the second, third and fourth metatarsals.
8.	Attach the second, third and fourth metatarsals on to the cuneiforms and cuboid.
9.	Attach the first metatarsal.
10.	Attach the fifth metatarsal.
11.	Attached the phalanges.
1.	Attach the tibia and fibula together to the talus with 4 segments of 25mm filament. Ensure that the tops are level and properly positioned. You are finished!
By now you should be able to get advanced standing in a university-level anatomy class! I hope you enjoy this model and can post pictures of your finished project!
"BodyParts3D, © The Database Center for Life Science licensed under CC Attribution-Share Alike 2.1 Japan".


Full Size Anatomically Correct Human Foot Model

Full Foot.stl

Textured Snap Egg (Circle)

Introducing the mesmerizing Hybrid Saturn Lamp. With its versatile design, you have the option to either screw the legs out and hang it from the ceiling or use the convenient leg holder to keep them safe when not in use.

To bring the Hybrid Saturn Lamp to life, you'll need a lamp socket and a bulb. For an enchanting display, I recommend using a Multi-color LED bulb. Depending on your location, you can find suitable options through the following links:

EU Plug:
https://ebay.us/PRcPvm

US Plug:
https://ebay.us/hBRN1i

You support me by suing these Links! :D

Enhance the ambiance with the perfect bulb:

EU:
https://ebay.us/yB4Acp

US:
https://ebay.us/oTWuS1

You support me by suing these Links! :D

Print Settings:
To create this, you only need to print the numbered files. The additional files are included in case you require separate prints. When printing the Saturn model, use a 0.4 mm nozzle or set a line height of 0.2 mm and a width of 0.4 mm. The domes can be challenging to print, but I recommend slowing down the layers at the top to 50% print speed (around layer 670). Achieve optimal strength by using 100% infill with concentric infill, or you can set your wall count to a higher value, such as 40. Basic white PLA works perfectly; I used Sunlu White PLA+ for my model. Avoid matte or glitter filaments as they may not produce the desired effect. No supports are required for printing.

For the legs and plate, no supports are needed. For a visually appealing result, try positioning the seam on the inside of the legs. Feel free to choose any color that suits your taste.

Enjoy the captivating beauty of your completed Hybrid Saturn Lamp! If you find joy in this creation, please consider supporting my work by buying me a coffee at https://www.buymeacoffee.com/Ri0m0. Every contribution helps me continue my filament-fueled endeavors.

Check out my profile for more incredible lamp designs, or stay tuned for upcoming releases. Here are some other mesmerizing hybrid lamps you might like:

Mercury: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6062935
Pluto: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6058417
Sun: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6036612
Mars : https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6036600
Jupiter: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6036586
Football: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6036569
Asteroid Vesta: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6036559
Basketball: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6036547
Venus: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6034731
Moon: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6034515

Each lamp combines the beauty of space with stunning design. Explore the universe of possibilities!

Please note that this design is provided under a non-commercial license.

Hybrid Hanging/Desk Saturn Lamp

Hybrid Hanging/Desk Satrun Lamp

It’s all about the snap. Will also hold a jellybean or small chocolate.

See here for video: https://youtu.be/p5RxgP4WY7Y 

The best way to print these is as oriented, with the model raised off the build plate 3mm and tree supports underneath. You will likely need to smooth the surfaces. If they are too tight, snapping them together and apart a few times will loosen it up.

Other snap-together eggs:
Basketball: https://thangs.com/mythangs/file/796742 
Tennis Ball: https://thangs.com/mythangs/file/796748 
Baseball: https://thangs.com/mythangs/file/796753


Egg Snaps

If you need a handy and stylish way to store your medicines and first aid supplies, you will love the Medicine Box, a 3D printable model inspired by the classic medicine box design that's a remix of Tool box parametric by Yanev. This box features a circle with a cross in the middle on the top, which can be printed in different colors to match your preference. The box also has a latch and handles for easy opening and carrying.

The Medicine Box is compatible with all the Tool Box Base with Divider models designed by me, such as the ones with 2, 3, 6, or 9 compartments. You can swap the base to create your own customized medicine box with different sizes and layouts. 

The Medicine Box is a 3D printable model that you can download and print with any 3D printer and filament. It is recommended to print the base, the top, and the cross in white and the circle, latch, and handles in red for a classic look. You can also print it in other colors and combinations to suit your style.

Download the Medicine Box today and keep your medicines and first aid supplies organized and accessible!

This is a REMIX and is protected by the Copyright Law. By downloading, YOU HAVE NO RIGHT to sell any digital files or print models of my designs without original designer explicit written consent.

To sell them legally, message the original designer.

Hope you like it! Any advice, or recommendation is welcome! Happy Printing!

I would be very grateful if you print it and put it on social networks to tag me at [@Frikarte3D](https://www.instagram.com/frikarte3d/)

If you tag me and have a private account or I don’t follow you, please send me a message so I can see your post and appreciate your work.

Medicine Box

DISPLAY ONLY - Medicine Box Frikarte3D.stl

This three-quarter size spine model is assembled using 2.85mm filament, allowing the vertebrae to flex and rotate. An optional display stand is available. See here for assembly video: https://youtu.be/PJFxQbMtud0
This model is designed for display purposes. While the filament allows for some movement, the movement is not biomechanically accurate. See here for a more challenging but biomechanically accurate full size spine model: https://thangs.com/mythangs/file/60245 
With the exception of C1 and C2, vertebrae are numbered on the posterior aspect of the vertebral body. The numbers are to assist with assembly and are hidden in the final assembled model. There was only space for numbers, so you’ll have to learn what C1 and C2 look like and be able to differentiate between cervical, thoracic and lumbar vertebrae. (It’s not that hard!)
Every effort has been made to maintain anatomical accuracy; however some small modifications were necessary to optimize the files for printing. In particular, the bone around the transverse foramen in the cervical spine, and the articular processes and lamina of the cervical and upper thoracic vertebrae have been thickened. 
Holes have been added for the insertion of filament, and small nubs have been added to the inferior surface of the vertebral body to ensure proper spacing.
The modifications are not noticeable for display purposes, just don’t use this model to plan your next spinal reconstruction surgery.
Printing: 
This is an intermediate project that requires good skills in setting up supports and in post-print cleaning and preparation.
The vertebrae in the files are oriented on an angle to minimize supports needed, specifically for the spinous processes. I recommend raising the objects off the print bed 3-5mm and then building supports up to them.
DO NOT PRINT “Full Spine Display Only”!
You will need to print out one of each “C1 – C7,” “T1 – T6,” “T7 – T12” and “L1-L4.”
Decide whether you need a display stand.
If you do not need a stand, use “L5 Plain” to complete the lumbar spine section. If you need a stand, use “L5 Base Connector” and print out the “Pelvic Base” as well.
Assembly:
Once all the pieces are printed and cleaned, you will need the following lengths of filament: Five 12cm lengths for the cervical and lumber sections, and six 15 cm lengths for the thoracic sections. These lengths are slightly longer than needed for ease of assembly and will need to be trimmed prior to gluing the final pieces in place. CA glue works well.
Here is the assembly sequence shown in the video.
For the cervical spine (C1-C7), insert two lengths of filament into C7 and thread on the remaining vertebrae. Glue C1 in place.
For the upper thoracic spine (T1-T6), insert three lengths of filament into T6 and thread on the remaining vertebrae. Glue T1 in place.
For the lower thoracic spine (T7-T12), insert three lengths of filament into T12 and thread on the remaining vertebrae. Glue T7 in place.
For the lumbar spine (L1-L5), insert three lengths of filament into TL4 and thread on L3 and L2. Glue L1 in place, and then glue on your selected version of L5.
Trim the filament protruding from each section (being careful not to over-trim), then glue the sections together. You’re done!
"BodyParts3D, © The Database Center for Life Science licensed under CC Attribution-Share Alike 2.1 Japan".


Flexible Spine Model with Display Stand

Full Spine Display Only.stl

This full-sized, anatomically-correct 6-piece female pelvis model includes the sacrum, 5th lumbar vertebrae, left and right hemipelvis, and proximal portions of the left and right femur. An optional stand base is also provided.
See here for video: https://youtu.be/djYy23eG_EU
To assemble you will need 16 1/4” x 1/8” strong cylindrical neodymium magnets. To use the display base, you will also need an 8” section of ¼” square keystock.
Here are considerations for assembly:
•	Before inserting magnets, clean out the magnet anchors with a 1/4” drill bit to remove any imperfections, allowing the magnets to sit properly.
•	Ensure that you insert magnets with polarity oriented to allow proper connection of bones.
•	You may need to use glue to secure some of the magnets in place. CA glue works well.
Except for the sacrum, all bones are oriented in reasonable positions for printing.
The sacrum is a very difficult bone to print no matter how it is oriented, so you will need to position this according to your experience, preferences, and set-up. The bone pictured in the model was printed upside down, with ample support at the bottom.
Every attempt has been made to maintain anatomical correctness; however, the following small modifications were necessary to optimize the files for 3D printing:
•	Some areas of bone have been thickened to support the magnet anchors.
•	Thin parts of the medial sacral crest have been thickened or removed to improve printing strength and quality.
•	With the exception of a few centimeters at the top and bottom, the spinal canal and the complex tunnels of the cauda equina have been filled in to allow for better printing strength and quality. 
Development of this model was initiated and guided by Health Allies, a small regional Osteopathy clinic in Orange NSW, Australia with 4 practicing Osteopaths from various Universities across Australia. The model will be used for visual learning purposes, from patient education in the clinic, to assisting with continuing learning with other medical professionals.

Resources: https://3dprint.nih.gov/discover/3DPX-015843 


6-Piece Magnetic Female Pelvis Model

Do Not Print.stl

Missing Tooth

Discover our 3D health and fitness model of the sleek Makeup Box Skin Care Storage perfect for organizing your cosmetic products. This detailed and realistic model, rendered using high-resolution textures, mirrors the functionality and aesthetics of a real-life makeup storage case. Experience the impeccable design and structure of this 3D model, ideal for interior design, virtual staging, and simulation applications. Ideal for beauty enthusiasts, makeup professionals, or 3D designers in the health & wellness sector, this model helps promote organization, cleanliness, and ultimate convenience. Explore this Makeup Box Skin Care Storage 3D model at Thangs.com. Using our platform, you'll experience an efficient 3D visualization along with the ability to interact in real time, rotate, scale, and dissect the model in detail. Dive into the world of 3D modeling with Thangs.com and our 3D model of a Makeup Box Skin Care Storage today.

Makeup Box Skin Care Storage

ball soccer shaped capsule for multicolor printing

recommended parameters:
-wall 3 - 4
-supports 60°
-infill 20%

Soccer Football Ball Capsule

Upper part.stl

These pieces snap together to form a spherical truncated icosahedron, a shape recognizable as a football or soccer ball. 

See here for video: https://youtu.be/C-KsbcPzaH4 

In the model shown, the “Penta” pieces are printed in black, the “Hex” pieces are printed in white. A complete ball requires 20 of the “Hex” pieces and 12 of the “Penta” pieces. The files provided will create a ball that is 100mm in diameter.

This design minimizes that amount of material needed to print large spheres, and also allows for multicolour balls by printing pieces in different colours.  You do not need supports to print, but you will need to ensure good bed adhesion. 

The pieces hold together on their own and will not need glue.

When assembling, be aware that the connection tabs on the hexagonal pieces are different depending on whether that side is connecting to another hexagonal piece or a pentagonal piece.

Pentagonal pieces only ever connect to hexagonal pieces, so the pentagonal tabs are all the same.

The tolerance between pieces is intentionally tight and will require some force to assemble. You can loosen the fit by filing of the thicker bottom layer “elephant foot” on each piece, or by scaling up the pieces slightly to increase the space between.  Be sure to do a few small test prints first before printing a whole batch.


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