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Gear Ball 2.0 3d model
RuvenBals
RuvenBals
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Gear Ball 2.0 3d model
Gear Ball 2.0 3d model
Gear Ball 2.0 3d model
Gear Ball 2.0 3d model

Gear Ball 2.0

This model is restricted by licensing terms. 

Hey,

You will need: 2 Big Gear 1 2 Big Gear 2 2 Small Gear 3 2 Small gear 4 1 Heart 8 connectors (try the file named "connector" first)

There is also a File named All that has everything you need on it.

Print settings: I used a brim, but you can get away without one if you like to life risky.

Assembly: Watch this Video: https://youtu.be/btxHkHjIkWg

Troubleshooting: The pins Break: Try scaling them. I did include a couple of different versions. Try them all. You can also try printing them with another spool of filament. Maybe even another Material. As a last resort, scale the Connector in your slicer untill it fits your needs.

Community Makes (11)
Amolen Red/Yellow/Blue Silk
Printed the Gearball 2.0 with Luminous Melody (Glow in the Dark) PLA and it came out perfectly, no need to print any adjustments. the other 3 i had printed for my niece and nephews needed some adjustments with the clip/connectors and they work wonderfully as well! Thanks for the great creation.
Very nice model.

I used Amolen dual color silk PLA and CC3D gold and silver silk PLA.
Provided connectors didn't work for me. The standard was a bit too tight and too weak. The strong and long version was too lose and hard to place inside the heart. In the end I reverse-engineered my own connectors. They're average in length, more sturdy but not so wide on the outside, so they're easier to install. I also designed a tool to help me insert them. I used silicone lube inside the gears and heart holes and also on the interface surface to improve the spinning.
Gear ball 2.0. Eryone silk rainbow. I like this smaller version of the Gear Ball.
Originally I thought the fit was pretty loose but someone on YouTube said to scale the connector 98%x103%x103% and that was a much better fit (I made the connectors with PETG). 


Upgrades to printer
-Brass Z axis coupler
-BTT SKR mini E3 control board
I'm fairly new and have limited troubleshooting experience so i'm  looking for help to diagnose why this failure occurred. Using ERYONE Silk PLA and their recommend temps. TIA
Make by user
Make by user
Printed in Polymaker PLA PolyTerra, heart and pins in ColorFabb PLA/PHA which is more flexible, does not "snap break" and also more slick so no need for any lubricant. All fits just right with basic pins. Thank you. Printed on Prusa MK4 with inputShaper 0.2mm structural
Make by user
Love the new design!
Amolen Red/Yellow/Blue Silk
Printed the Gearball 2.0 with Luminous Melody (Glow in the Dark) PLA and it came out perfectly, no need to print any adjustments. the other 3 i had printed for my niece and nephews needed some adjustments with the clip/connectors and they work wonderfully as well! Thanks for the great creation.
Very nice model.

I used Amolen dual color silk PLA and CC3D gold and silver silk PLA.
Provided connectors didn't work for me. The standard was a bit too tight and too weak. The strong and long version was too lose and hard to place inside the heart. In the end I reverse-engineered my own connectors. They're average in length, more sturdy but not so wide on the outside, so they're easier to install. I also designed a tool to help me insert them. I used silicone lube inside the gears and heart holes and also on the interface surface to improve the spinning.
Gear ball 2.0. Eryone silk rainbow. I like this smaller version of the Gear Ball.
Originally I thought the fit was pretty loose but someone on YouTube said to scale the connector 98%x103%x103% and that was a much better fit (I made the connectors with PETG). 


Upgrades to printer
-Brass Z axis coupler
-BTT SKR mini E3 control board
I'm fairly new and have limited troubleshooting experience so i'm  looking for help to diagnose why this failure occurred. Using ERYONE Silk PLA and their recommend temps. TIA
Make by user
Make by user
Printed in Polymaker PLA PolyTerra, heart and pins in ColorFabb PLA/PHA which is more flexible, does not "snap break" and also more slick so no need for any lubricant. All fits just right with basic pins. Thank you. Printed on Prusa MK4 with inputShaper 0.2mm structural
Make by user
Love the new design!


Community Makes (11)
Amolen Red/Yellow/Blue Silk
Printed the Gearball 2.0 with Luminous Melody (Glow in the Dark) PLA and it came out perfectly, no need to print any adjustments. the other 3 i had printed for my niece and nephews needed some adjustments with the clip/connectors and they work wonderfully as well! Thanks for the great creation.
Very nice model.

I used Amolen dual color silk PLA and CC3D gold and silver silk PLA.
Provided connectors didn't work for me. The standard was a bit too tight and too weak. The strong and long version was too lose and hard to place inside the heart. In the end I reverse-engineered my own connectors. They're average in length, more sturdy but not so wide on the outside, so they're easier to install. I also designed a tool to help me insert them. I used silicone lube inside the gears and heart holes and also on the interface surface to improve the spinning.
Gear ball 2.0. Eryone silk rainbow. I like this smaller version of the Gear Ball.
Originally I thought the fit was pretty loose but someone on YouTube said to scale the connector 98%x103%x103% and that was a much better fit (I made the connectors with PETG). 


Upgrades to printer
-Brass Z axis coupler
-BTT SKR mini E3 control board
I'm fairly new and have limited troubleshooting experience so i'm  looking for help to diagnose why this failure occurred. Using ERYONE Silk PLA and their recommend temps. TIA
Make by user
Make by user
Printed in Polymaker PLA PolyTerra, heart and pins in ColorFabb PLA/PHA which is more flexible, does not "snap break" and also more slick so no need for any lubricant. All fits just right with basic pins. Thank you. Printed on Prusa MK4 with inputShaper 0.2mm structural
Make by user
Love the new design!
Amolen Red/Yellow/Blue Silk
Printed the Gearball 2.0 with Luminous Melody (Glow in the Dark) PLA and it came out perfectly, no need to print any adjustments. the other 3 i had printed for my niece and nephews needed some adjustments with the clip/connectors and they work wonderfully as well! Thanks for the great creation.
Very nice model.

I used Amolen dual color silk PLA and CC3D gold and silver silk PLA.
Provided connectors didn't work for me. The standard was a bit too tight and too weak. The strong and long version was too lose and hard to place inside the heart. In the end I reverse-engineered my own connectors. They're average in length, more sturdy but not so wide on the outside, so they're easier to install. I also designed a tool to help me insert them. I used silicone lube inside the gears and heart holes and also on the interface surface to improve the spinning.
Gear ball 2.0. Eryone silk rainbow. I like this smaller version of the Gear Ball.
Originally I thought the fit was pretty loose but someone on YouTube said to scale the connector 98%x103%x103% and that was a much better fit (I made the connectors with PETG). 


Upgrades to printer
-Brass Z axis coupler
-BTT SKR mini E3 control board
I'm fairly new and have limited troubleshooting experience so i'm  looking for help to diagnose why this failure occurred. Using ERYONE Silk PLA and their recommend temps. TIA
Make by user
Make by user
Printed in Polymaker PLA PolyTerra, heart and pins in ColorFabb PLA/PHA which is more flexible, does not "snap break" and also more slick so no need for any lubricant. All fits just right with basic pins. Thank you. Printed on Prusa MK4 with inputShaper 0.2mm structural
Make by user
Love the new design!

Discussions
R
robzn
 3d model
 3d model
 3d model
Rache P
Rachael.collier

Tried so many attempts at this using my k1 but i just cant physically get the fit toght enough that it actually works it just keeps liskng shape every spin... what am i doing wrong....

Adriely C
adriely

comigo também! Me parece que precisa ter o arquivo "heart" modificado, assim como nos outros projetos dele onde ele fez variações do heart.

David K
davidkraml
Printed in Polymaker PLA PolyTerra, heart and pins in ColorFabb PLA/PHA which is more flexible, does not "snap break" and also more slick so no need for any lubricant. All fits just right with basic pins. Thank you. Printed on Prusa MK4 with inputShaper 0.2mm structural
Printed in Polymaker PLA PolyTerra, heart and pins in ColorFabb PLA/PHA which is more flexible, does not "snap break" and also more slick so no need for any lubricant. All fits just right with basic pins. Thank you. Printed on Prusa MK4 with inputShaper 0.2mm structural 3d model
 3d model
3D_PrintExplorer
3D_PrintExplorer

I've been printing the connectors in PET-G Seems to have the best success

Matthew B
Matthew B
Love the new design!
Love the new design! 3d model
 3d model
Dan P
ThangsDan

Great looking filament!

Ruven B
RuvenBals

xD so fast

Dan P
ThangsDan
 3d model
 3d model
 3d model
Bev A
 3d model
 3d model
L
laverickmkatie

Oh my what filament did you use for this?

Bev A

I think it was Sunlu matte rainbow

Dan P
ThangsDan

Wow this is incredible

Bev A

Thanks. I'm loving trying these out with some really cool filament colours. I've been giving them out to students as a reward for good science work and they love them 🥰

3D_PrintExplorer
Amolen Red/Yellow/Blue Silk
Amolen Red/Yellow/Blue Silk 3d model
PrinterBambu Lab X1
MaterialPLA
M
Matroskinu
Very nice model. I used Amolen dual color silk PLA and CC3D gold and silver silk PLA. Provided connectors didn't work for me. The standard was a bit too tight and too weak. The strong and long version was too lose and hard to place inside the heart. In the end I reverse-engineered my own connectors. They're average in length, more sturdy but not so wide on the outside, so they're easier to install. I also designed a tool to help me insert them. I used silicone lube inside the gears and heart holes and also on the interface surface to improve the spinning.
Very nice model.

I used Amolen dual color silk PLA and CC3D gold and silver silk PLA.
Provided connectors didn't work for me. The standard was a bit too tight and too weak. The strong and long version was too lose and hard to place inside the heart. In the end I reverse-engineered my own connectors. They're average in length, more sturdy but not so wide on the outside, so they're easier to install. I also designed a tool to help me insert them. I used silicone lube inside the gears and heart holes and also on the interface surface to improve the spinning. 3d model
 3d model
 3d model
 3d model
PrinterArtillery Genius
Print bed sizeX: 220 mm; Y: 220 mm; Z: 250 mm
MaterialPLA+
Layer height0.2 mm
Infill density15 %
D
D0ZER
Originally I thought the fit was pretty loose but someone on YouTube said to scale the connector 98%x103%x103% and that was a much better fit (I made the connectors with PETG). Upgrades to printer -Brass Z axis coupler -BTT SKR mini E3 control board
Originally I thought the fit was pretty loose but someone on YouTube said to scale the connector 98%x103%x103% and that was a much better fit (I made the connectors with PETG). 


Upgrades to printer
-Brass Z axis coupler
-BTT SKR mini E3 control board 3d model
 3d model
PrinterCreality Ender 3 Pro
MaterialPLA
Layer height0.12 mm
Infill density15 %
SupportsNone
View all 37 discussions

Gear Ball 2.0

3.3K downloads · 2 years ago in  and 
Ruven B
RuvenBals14K followers
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This model is restricted by licensing terms.